If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Welcome to Sixthsphere. Images and some forums are hidden to non registered members. Registration only takes a minute so please join in the community and share in the knowledge!
thats awesome! three cars...thats the cheapest way to do it thats for sure. Once somethings wrong (as simple as it may be) people basically give them away. Congrats on the progress, can't wait for pics of this mut!
-RuD
TOY: 95 SW1 Turbo 5 spd DOHC swapped - Sold.
DD: 04 ION Redline (stock)
d3ad1ysp0rk I am not completley sure what your talking about. If your asking if the drain line will hook up to the fitting, yep i am sure my drain line has a female end on it so it will screw right onto it. If thats not exactly what you meant you can PM me if you want or just repost it maybe word it a bit different?! I can be kinda dense some times. :lol:
It's my understanding that the fitting that gets welded into the pan should be as high as possible without hitting the block in order to NOT flow directly into where the oil is sitting.
Any better? If you still don't get what I'm saying I'll open up MSPaint! [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/biggrin.gif[/img]
- Justin [s]99 Blue SL2 - T3/T4 14psi[/s] (dead)
FS: Pimped lower trans mount, TiAL 38mm Wastegate, Gauge Cluster, Oil Drain
Now no need for the MSPaint. I got what your saying. I am almost betting it is not high enough to clear the oil level. It is water tight and i am not to worried about restriction of flow while running. I was taught while the car is running there may be 1qt of oil in the pan 2qts max so if this is true nothing should back up. (Hope I was taught right). It is deffinently above the 2 qt mark. I have it about 2.5" from the top of the pan to center of fitting.
See little dense but i can see the light if someone hits me hard enough. [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/lol.gif[/img]
Well i have to agree, oil return bung needs to be higher in the pan by at least an inch or so. you want it to drain ONTO the oil in the pan not INTO (if that makes sense).
anyway, looks like its close to being drivable. Those coil packs hung off the valve cover bolts? Grounded? Mounted on a plate...kinda neat.
Did you say you havea manual to swap into this? (i just ask cause it looks like the top of a valve body assembly in the pic)
Nice progress!!
-RuD
TOY: 95 SW1 Turbo 5 spd DOHC swapped - Sold.
DD: 04 ION Redline (stock)
No i don't have a manual yet. Around here the cheapest manual i could find would cost me $200 nothing else included so i am going to leave the auto in it for now but i don't beleive it will last to long at all. just gotta get my brother to prom and back then i can start trying to find a little cheaper manual. Probably will have to post in the wanted section.
Actualy the coils are mounted on a plate that wraps around and down to where the engine lift eyelet was. Bolted and deffinently grounded and the stock wires still reach them. Yeah Had to improvise with the coils. The turbo just cuts to close to the block for me to wedge them in there stock location.
I do hope to have the car done this week if everything goes right. I know this is probably a wet dream but i am hoping for at least 220hp. The turbo will support up to 450hp comfortably and 500 if someone has the spool. My injectors will support 350hp max so maybe i can actually do it! [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif[/img] The trans will still be the weak link for now.
And it does make sense with the oil return. I guess i didn't put tons of thought into it before mounting that. Hopefully it does not screw with anything to bad.
I guess if it does i'll be spending some time on a different oil pan and maybe $44 on a turbo seal kit. Only time will tell right?
Thanks for everyone looking at my build. I will take any help or suggestions i can get!
This build looks very interesting! IMO, I bet if you weld up some brackets to connect the turbo adapter to the engine it wouldn't crack, so long as you make a few solid connections. But either way looks awesome!
I just looked at your build thread, but I am confused as to why you are using hypers instead of forged pistons for your build. What's your goal for it? Honestly I'm quite interested in seeing what the hypers will hold now, so good luck on it.
HP hopes are 300 maybe 300+
Hypers made it into the motor because i did not have $750 to devote to pistons. Trust me i do want forged. But i do not beleive this car will ever see them. I think with the right tune Hypers will last a long time. 18-22 PSI is my goal. I have enough fuel control for 450+HP at 85% duty cycle.
Comment