DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 08/15/11 *NEW PICS*

[DigitalDC89]

1988 Ford Mustang GT Hatchback 5 Speed

Finally decided on a nice 351w based build. I will be building a 408 stroker, with a single 76mm turbo, pushing about 12psi for 600-650rwhp.

Started: March 2010
Ending: No Clue

Engine/Driveline:
Stock 5.0L V8, running on Megasquirt (eventually)
BBK 3" Cold Air Intake
BBK 1 5/8" Equal Length Shorty Headers
Pypes 2.5" Off-Road X-Pipe
Pypes 2.5" Violator Catback w/turndowns
MSD 6AL Ignition Box w/ Stock Ignition Coil
MSD 8.5mm Wires
EGR Block-off with Looped Coolant Lines
Timing set to 14* Advanced with 93 Octane Fuel
Smog and A/C Removed, P/S Relocated
Solid Motor and Trans Mounts
FRPP 4.10 gears, with Carbon Fiber clutch discs (3.27's with the 40
Maximum Motorsport Aluminum Clutch Quadrant
Stack Racing Firewall Adjuster
American Muscle Short Throw Shifter
American Muscle Underdrive Pulleys (crank, w/p, alt)

Suspension/Braking:
Maximum Motorsport Subframe Connectors
Hawk HPS Pads w/Powerslot Rotors (front only, rear drums are stock)
---73mm SVO Front Calipers, with Rear Disc Conversion over winter.
Eibach Pro-Line Springs
Team Z Upper and Lower Control Arms, w/Anti-Roll Bar (ARB not installed)
Strange Adjustable Struts/Shocks

Interior/Exterior:
Semi Gutted - Dash, Seats and Hatch Carpet Remain
3-piece Chrome Headlights

Stereo:
Pioneer Headunit
Pioneer Front Speakers, Rears Removed

[DigitalDC89]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

i bought the car a week ago, and love it. i have no clue what im going to do with it yet, as im still learning alot about these cars. as of now, i want to build a high compression N/A beast. just not sure how, lol. bought it for $3500, with 140k miles and the intake, headers, and exhaust. condition is really good for its age, and after some research, i determined it was worth the price.

within the past week, i cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve to help some idling issues. did the top-end seafowm cleaning, and added some seafoam to the oil to clean it up (got 140k miles).

car was having some hesitation/misfire issues down low (1.5k-2.5k RPMs) with low throttle, were it really lacked power. i check the plugs, which were new, and they were all gapped to .055", instead of .050" and two of them were cracked in the outside, so i replaced them all, and got an MSD coil and wires to help. after a quick test drive, i had no hesitation or misfires.

seeing as i want this to be a complete street/strip terror, im thinking about removing the mufflers and installing some straight pipe sections, with only the x-pipe installed. since there arent any cats, i want to dump it behind the car, or atleast to the rear axle, so i dont have to worry about the fumes to much.

please post up your opinions as to what i should do with the car, i would appreciate the help. ill post pics and vids when i get the chance. car is sitting in the garage until i get insurance on it, lol.

[TARZAN]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

I've had a couple fox bodies. I can offer some insight.....But first I need to know what you really want from the car.

-Will

[punkboySL2]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

I've ridden in it already. it's a pile of junk...


j/k

...but it def needs some TLC all around. I'm sure it'll be a fun project.

[TARZAN]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

Is the ashtray door broke/gone?

-Will

[DigitalDC89]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

no its still there

i want to build a high compression 347 stroker to be honest. completely N/A beast

[TARZAN]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

lol....

What are you goals for the car? Is there an ET you want to run? Do you want it to perform better in a straight line or in the corners?

-Will

[DigitalDC89]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

mostly straight line performance, but able to handle some spirited driving. i dont know a while lot about these cars, so ive been trolling around a few mustang forums. but i want to make it as fast as possible without destroying the bank, or streetability.

rebuild the engine with a 347 stroker kit, new intake manifold and throttle body and 3.73 gears. new heads if i could find something cheap enough.

i want a fast car thatll throw you into the seat whenever i floor it. i would like it to run 12's at least, if not a little faster. if its even possible.

[TARZAN]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

Not to be rude, but if you want a solid 12 second street car there is no need for a stroker motor.

If you're wanting to freshen up the motor I'd bore it out to clean it up, stock crank/rod 306. The stock blocks are relatively weak. A stock crank/rod forged piston 306 rotating assembly will hold just as much as the stock block lol.

If you're willing to buy used I'd shop around for some Edelbrock Performers, Trick Flows Twisted Wedge or Track Heats, GT40 "turbo swirl" heads, etc....Pretty much any of the basic, aluminum heads. On a personal note I'd rather have well ported E7's (stock heads) than GT40P's.

The stock intake is a bottle neck. Shop around for a SystemaxII, TFS Track Heat, most any of the Edelbrocks, a Cobra, or a GT40 intake. All of them work well, can be had used for a couple hundred dollars, and flow MUCH better than stock.

If you have a fox body, and you're gonna mod it, you want that cammed sound. See if you can find a TFS Stage 1. If you go with a Ford alphabet cam go with an E or F. B won't get you what you want, X and Z are just too big. An E-cam with some 1.7 roller rockers would be a good setup.

You've already got the exhaust covered!

I don't think you mentioned if it was a manual or automatic?

Go ahead and go with a 255 in tank pump. Its like $100. check with dylan at StangRacing.com He has great prices. replace the fuel filter and strainer when you do. I'd wait until I do heads to upgrade injectors to 24's or 30's. Your stock ones should be fine until then. Shop the classifieds for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You should be able to get one for next to nothing.

Find a C&L 76mm MAF used, make sure it has a sample tube for whatever injectors you're running.
Find a used throttle body, 70 or 75MM. They should all bolt right on.

A good, budget suspension approach is 4 cyl. springs out back, stock springs up front. If you want to spend the extra $$$ Strange adjustable struts are nice, but not required. You can find used Lakewood shocks/struts cheap. 70/30's up front 50/50's out back if you can find them.

IF YOU PLAN TO BEAT ON IT GET SOME SUBFRAME CONNECTORS. They're $100-$200 and they are one of the best mods you'll do.

Probably 20 companies make rear control arms. Check with Dylan at Stang Racing for that too. He gets great prices on UPR, and I think maybe Steeda and BBK. I wouldn't do anything crazy expensive. They're all better than stock.

Here is some budget options you can try, if you want to put in the extra effort to save some $$$.

Explorers came stock with GT40 long blocks. A stock 5.0 Explorer intake is a GT40 intake. I bolts right on, but I think there is some small fab to get the the throttle cable on or something. All things considered it's a great option.

There are a bunch of electric fans out there that can save you $$$. Lincoln Mark VIII fans, LS1 F-body fans, OE pull-off fans from early 2000's Volvo S80's, etc....Shop e-bay, they're usually for sale on there.

If you're hard up, good with welding, bored, or all of the above you can box your stock rear control arms. It's not optimum, but it's definitely better than stock.

Rebuild your stock trac-loc and pack it with an extra clutch or two. They wear over time and you get the dreaded one wheel peel. The rebuild will fix that, and the extra clutches will ensure that extra grip if you decide to try and launch it on some good tires, etc...

If you decide to do a 5-lug swap you can use Ranger drums out back and Mark VIII or 94/95 mustang hubs/rotors up front (depending on how you approach it).

When you do your tune up make sure and replace the fuel filter. When you replaced your thermostat go ahead and go with a 180*.


If you need any advice, let me know....This is definitely a "been there, done that" thing for me

-Will

[anti-rice 01sl2]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

Go new guy!

[DigitalDC89]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

thats a ton of information, and its definitely helpful. without the need of a stroker kit, that'll save me a pretty penny for other stuff. since i apparently forgot, its a 5 speed manual, with 140k miles on the engine.

so basically, get some overbore forged pistons when i rebuild the engine, and start tossing the usual upgrades at it.

the list of parts i managed to make consisted of:
BBK HEADERS
BBK INTAKE
PYPES X PIPE
PYPES CATBACK
MSD COIL
MSD WIRES
Ford E303 Cams
Solid Mounts
Short Throw Shifter
3.73 Gears (rebuild)
BBK Throttle Body
BBK Intake Manifold
H&R Race Springs
Bushing Kit
Flywheel
Clutch
Underdrive Pullies


obviously those can and probably will change with time, as different things come up and as my goal changes. im currently just giving it some much needed TLC, while having some fun with it. it leaks oil from almost every seal imaginable, so im starting to debate whether i should rebuild it now or later. with your reccomendations to NOT go with a stroker kit, im leaning more towards the rebuild now. if i can get away with fixing the engine up now with a slight overbore, and adding stuff to it later, then i might as well go for it.

how much power do you think im making with the current setup, on a 140k mile engine? estimate on 1/4 mile time? ive tried looking for stuff online, but these cars have so much more aftermarket that its hard to determine what i could be making.

[DigitalDC89]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

Go new guy!

i was thinking the same thing, lol

[TARZAN]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

If you put it on some decent tires and the clutch held you have a low 14/high 13 car. On street tires it's probably a low 14 car. Not bad all things considered.

I'd do subframe connectors sooner than later, its amazing how much they tie the car together.

If you really wanna do a budget setup you could box the stock control arms, some pull out 4 cylinder springs, Explorer intake, delete the EGR stuff (if not already done), 3.73's and rebuild/pack the stock diff., port the stock heads, go with 1.7 roller rockers (even with a stock cam they're a nice, budget upgrade), take off electric fans, and find a used MAF and TB. You can always just put a cone filter on the end of the MAF. If you're gonna use the A/C, cool....If not, take it all off. Also you can bypass the AIR pump (if not already done). Both remove weight and free up some HP.

The above are all budget options that would do wonders for the car. The same guy can get you a deal on a a clutch and a short throw, you'll want both!

Thanks,

-Will

[DigitalDC89]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

ive been looking into converting it to MAF, since it currently has the Speed Density stuff. i hope to head to the junkyard tomorrow, and if im lucky, ill find an 89 with the computer and MAF still available.

what would the 1.7 roller rockers do exactly? like i said, im still learning about these cars. i knew next to nothing about cars in general before my saturn, now i know a good bit, but anything outside my 'norm' is german to me, lol.

if this were your car, would you rebuild it now, and add performance parts to it later? what all should i replace during the rebuild? bearings of course, front/rear main seals, etc.

thanks for all the info

[TARZAN]

Re: DigitalDC89's '88 Mustang GT Build - 03/08/10

ive been looking into converting it to MAF, since it currently has the Speed Density stuff. i hope to head to the junkyard tomorrow, and if im lucky, ill find an 89 with the computer and MAF still available.

what would the 1.7 roller rockers do exactly? like i said, im still learning about these cars. i knew next to nothing about cars in general before my saturn, now i know a good bit, but anything outside my 'norm' is german to me, lol.

if this were your car, would you rebuild it now, and add performance parts to it later? what all should i replace during the rebuild? bearings of course, front/rear main seals, etc.

thanks for all the info

There are a couple options when converting to MAF, I do not know all of them. I'm pretty sure wwardson :sp: and Satistraction on my forum have both done it. Something about tappin a pin on one of the Fox ECU's (A9L maybe?).

Higher ratio RR's (stock is 1.6) increase lift. So they're cheap, easy to install, and they slightly exaggerate the stock cam specs.

If it were my car I'd run a compression test and a leak down check. I'd base my decision to rebuild the shortblock off of that.

If you rebuild have the crank and rods checked, put ARP bolts in the rods, budget forged pistons (Coast High Performance has cheap prices, good parts), rings, bearings, go ahead and replace the oil pump with a high volume, and install a double roller timing chain.

-Will