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  • Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

    OK so here's the deal... My friend who had it supercharged (Powerdyne 5-7psi), then he blew up the motor by running to lean . He lost interest in it and sold the turbo as a kit and made it NA again . Did weight reduction, Basic upgrades, and put it on spray (75 wet single fogger and 125ish), and it ran really well :cry: . I'm pretty sure I blew a ring. The head is fine but it has 210psi in 3 cylinders and 90psi in the number 4. So I sold It to a buddy of mine who was going to stick with my idea for the project.

    He continued with my weight reduction purchasing a newer style front bumper, a light-less trunk skin, non-Airbag wheel, new radiator, removed the wiper bottle, blah blah blah... And purchased (from Green-Monstah) a bored out 2.0 bottom-end and some 11.5:1 JE Pistons (with rings) [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/razz.gif[/img] . He started a build thread... (but will not be finishing it)
    viewtopic.php?f=60&t=26970

    I recently had gone through a few cars and he decided to buy a house, so I purchased my SC2 back from him (with the new parts, not installed).

    This bring me to current day.... THE PROJECT BUILD. I want this car to pass California Smog (Hopefully, at least tailpipe), and look mostly stock and run high 11's low 12's on tire. I'm looking for input on parts for this car. This will be my first ground up build. I have a basic grasp on things, and learn quick. I also have my brother-in-laws offroad shop (Mafi-Industries, they motor work and full sand cars and stuff like that.) at my disposal, and my buddy that started the rebuild is going to help me out (He's VW Tech). I have a basic Idea of what I want but I'd love/need some input.

    Here is the list I have so far.

    BOTTOM END
    2.0 Block
    JE 11.5:1 pistons
    Crower Rods (I have no idea what specifically what I need but this is the brand.)
    Stock Crank (Unless you know a cheap lightened & forged one)
    Newer Style Lower Girdle? (I've heard of this but know nothing of it)

    HEAD
    SDA Stage 2 Head, Valves, Valve Guides & Cams (Any alternatives welcome?)

    INTAKE
    Warm air Short Ram Intake (The one I have I don't know what it came off of originally but it looks K&N thus police ignore it. It also flows well and it's my experience with Nitrous (6cars plus) that shorter intake is better.)
    Port Matched & Polished Intake Manifold
    Larger Bored Throttle Body

    POWER ADDER
    Nitrous... LOTS OF IT... Direct port 150 Wet (Either per intake runner or if it can be done, in line with the injectors.)

    EXHAUST
    4 to 1 Custom, 1 7/8 to 2 1/2 With Cat and Muffler.

    MISC
    MSD DIS2 ? (I have not gotten into how I'm going to rev limit it or handle timing control but I don't want to get a standalone system for it. To much tuning and wiring for me. So no MegaSquirt or Haltech.)

    It currently has...

    Engine Misc:
    Non-Cold Air Intake
    MSD 8.5mm Wires
    MSD Coilpacks
    Electric Fan Mod
    Polyurethane Dog-Bones
    Polyurethane Mounts

    Turbocharger & Induction:
    Custom Single Fogger 75/125 (Wheel Rated) Wet Shot NOS

    Fuel & Tuning:
    CA-Automatic ECU (No Rev or Speed Limiter)
    Pyro-meter

    Exhaust:
    Random Technology High Flow Cat
    2.5-Inch Cat Back
    Hight Flow Muffler (Sounds Like a Honda, Doh)

    Drivetrain:
    Lightened Flywheel
    Centerforce Stage 2 Clutch
    Phantom Grip Diff-Pin
    Phantom Grip LSD
    Short Throw Shifter
    Hardened Internals

    Weight reduction & transfer:
    Fender Wells Delete
    Front Lower Body Plastics Delete
    Door Panels Delete
    Roof Panel Delete
    A-Pillers Delete
    Rear Deck Cover Delete
    Rear Seat Delete
    Carpet Delete
    Trunk Internals Delete
    Bumper Supports Delete
    Spoiler Delete
    Sound Dampening Delete
    Ducting & Vents Delete
    AC Delete
    Heating System Delete
    Electric Seatbelt Delete
    WindshieldWiper Delete
    Lighter Model Bumper-Skin
    Lighter Model Lite-Free Trunk-Skin
    * Working on Sun-Roof Motor and Track Delete

    Suspension, wheels & tires:
    Front Upper Strut Tower Brace
    Blocked Rear Springs For Drag Traction

    Thats all I got so far... I'm still learning about bore and stroke and what I'm looking for for decking the head and all that stuff. So any info s good.

    Original Purchase From First Owner: $1200
    Added Mods: $350
    Sold For: $350 Plus VW parts...
    Repurchased For: $1000
    Bringing current total to: $2200

    Expected build cost (including original and re-purchase): $4000 (Maybe $5000, remember labor is free)
    Expected Completion Date: May '09 (money is the main factor)
    Expected WHP: 300-ish
    Expected Times: High 11's to Mid 12's

    Current status: Drivable (not advised), but not driven.

    Not So Current Pic


    Not So Current Pic


    Current Pic (But not a good one)

    THE END.... for now.
    PS: I am the Night Driver, I am the Car-Killer. (And I did give it 2 oil changes, one when I bought it, and one 4k miles later.)

  • #2
    Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

    $1800? lol

    It'll be $1800+ to build the engine. Then you need to get the nitrous setup and everything associated, then the exhaust, and an ACT clutch since that centerforce will give out eventually...


    Good luck
    - Justin [s]99 Blue SL2 - T3/T4 14psi[/s] (dead)


    FS: Pimped lower trans mount, TiAL 38mm Wastegate, Gauge Cluster, Oil Drain

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

      Originally posted by d3ad1ysp0rk
      $1800? lol

      It'll be $1800+ to build the engine. Then you need to get the nitrous setup and everything associated, then the exhaust, and an ACT clutch since that centerforce will give out eventually...


      Good luck
      I already have the block and pistons, the labor is free, and the nitrous setup is free (in-hand). I'll have to buy the jets after I figure out the sizing, but those are cheap. The main cost is the Head & Cams 1100ish (I might not get cams, as I have not heard that much of an increase from the posts I've read.), and the rods are 400-750ish depending on if I go cheap with the SCAT or nice with the Crower. Everything else is already there. The gaskets I can get as a rebuild kit, bearings usually come with them (if its from saturn), thats about 300. It was rebuilt about 7k ago, so I'll be able to salvage/re-use most of it, Timing chain and tensioner, intake manifold (all ready ported/polished), I'm gonna do the throttle body myself in my brother-in-laws machine shop.

      And I'm not actually saying it will 1800 more it just depends on how much effort and what parts (as always). There are always little things. And your right the clutch will probably go out but it was new 7k ago with the rest of the motor, and still has a good amount of grip. So it's going back in, transmission staying untouched (from how it is).

      Technically I could just throw the bottom end in right now with my rods (stock pin size) and call it a day, or just build the bottom end, then save up for a custom grind, valve, port, topend. But this is why I'm asking.

      I have not even looked into the rods yet except for basic prices. And with that much spray I might a bigger fuel pump. I'm just asking around. I also set a time frame that might be to long or to short, or a HP that is unrealistic. I'm pretty sure 5-6 months and 300whp is a fair estimate. Along with 11-12's on tire, considering the HP, weight and gearing.

      If it runs 2-3k in parts that just extends the deadline some thats all. I'm going to buy a junkyard motor to scavenge parts and sensors off of it so I can get the majority built without taking apart the motor in it till the last second.

      All in all this is a learning experience (never completely tore-down, built up an engine), I've run spray an a ton of cars and installed and jetted for friends. This car had 20-25 bottles run through before I sprayed incorrectly. It ran both the 75 and the 125 shots, and I'm adding in more failsafes this time, I might even get a progressive controller for it.

      I'm making this thread to both document the build and to document my idiocy. I like to plan ahead and over plan. So It will be verbose and detailed with diagrams and such. I just want honest opinions and ideas, from people that have "been there and done that".

      Thanks for the input. If you have list of thing that I should look for or good places to get them or afterthoughts from your builds I'd love to know them.

      PS: Tonight Barona Raceway CA USA "Pinks" 10bucks... I'm going. But not to participate [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/cry.gif[/img]

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

        get rid of the centerforce, i think thats what jay was having a problem with when he was spraying a big shot.

        get a walbro 255, the stock fuel system can't flow enough to keep up with the nitrous solenoid at 150.

        cams are a must, they will really wake up the car. american cams(or something like that) told me 250 for a custom grind

        the noszle system i'd stay away from, i had it on the car and tried spraying my single fogger system and melted a piston. now i've found some other problems since then, that may have contributed to the horrible lean condition, but still, i can't recommend it. go with a standard direct port system.

        look into the fjo mini 2 stage nitrous controller. its about 250, but its a great product. you can use a laptop to control the size and ramp of the shot.

        and btw, the 12.9 was with a single fogger 50 shot.
        97 sc1-- DOHC swap, P&amp;P head, race cams, AEM CAI, geo TB, eclipse 4-1 header, lsd, act clutch, fidanza FW<br /><br />na<br />14.9 @91mph<br />50 shot <br />[email protected]<br /><br />forged motor coming soon..<br /><br />vids<br />http://videos.streetfire.net/profile/bo ... dewayz.htm

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

          Originally posted by boostinsidewayz
          get rid of the centerforce, i think thats what jay was having a problem with when he was spraying a big shot.

          get a walbro 255, the stock fuel system can't flow enough to keep up with the nitrous solenoid at 150.

          cams are a must, they will really wake up the car. american cams(or something like that) told me 250 for a custom grind

          the noszle system i'd stay away from, i had it on the car and tried spraying my single fogger system and melted a piston. now i've found some other problems since then, that may have contributed to the horrible lean condition, but still, i can't recommend it. go with a standard direct port system.

          look into the fjo mini 2 stage nitrous controller. its about 250, but its a great product. you can use a laptop to control the size and ramp of the shot.

          and btw, the 12.9 was with a single fogger 50 shot.
          I'll drop the CenterForce if when I get the trans out it looks bad, other than that I'm gonna run it till it pops. I'd rather have to swap it out later than not use a perfectly good clutch. I agree, and swapping it will be on my list though. I have an in with a local custom clutch company that is in a few of my frinds cars and so far (I've drivven a few) I have heard nothing but good things. (ClutchPower)

          Cams are for sure.

          Running lean? that sounds like the wrong jetting? what pistons were you running? I have JE Dished that are going in. I'm gonna look more into the NOSzles, I'm sure I'll find more info on LS1Tech and such, But I like knowing the fact that they do fit the Saturns. I'll add a fuel pump to the list, either a holly red booster pump or a Walbro in tank. But I'll look into how to hide the direct port fogger system better as well

          I'll look into the controller you mentioned as well.

          WOW... 12.9 on 50 Single fogger... That is impressive. Makes me wish I got mine down the track at least once with the spray. I only ran it on the streets. but it only lost to a Mustang on spray, and a Boosted Civic (380WHP), so I suppose that's not to bad.

          Thanks for all the info, I hope your new car runs awesome...

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

            Originally posted by boostinsidewayz
            the noszle system i'd stay away from, i had it on the car and tried spraying my single fogger system and melted a piston.

            Now that is something I didnt want to hear [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/sad.gif[/img] lol
            1998 SL2a White Daily Driver- Groundpounder,Billet Dog Bones,Short Ram Intake,OBX Header,Thermal R&D Cat Back,SAFC 2,Fiber Images Hood

            1993 SC1m Black Project Car-On hold

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

              An inline pump won't do you any good since the stock pump can't get it out of the tank fast enough to supply it. There's no reason not to do the walbro, especially since it's so cheap.
              [16:02] Ferrari166mm: so you&#39;re finally getting into real cars.<br />[16:02] adamkob32: I&#39;ve just had enough of racing a 100HP nutsack
              <br /><br />

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

                Originally posted by BobEnigma
                I'll drop the CenterForce if when I get the trans out it looks bad, other than that I'm gonna run it till it pops. I'd rather have to swap it out later than not use a perfectly good clutch. I agree, and swapping it will be on my list though. I have an in with a local custom clutch company that is in a few of my frinds cars and so far (I've drivven a few) I have heard nothing but good things. (ClutchPower)

                Running lean? that sounds like the wrong jetting? what pistons were you running? I have JE Dished that are going in. I'm gonna look more into the NOSzles, I'm sure I'll find more info on LS1Tech and such, But I like knowing the fact that they do fit the Saturns. I'll add a fuel pump to the list, either a holly red booster pump or a Walbro in tank. But I'll look into how to hide the direct port fogger system better as well
                the problem with centerforce, from what i've heard about on hear, is even brand new, they are not anywhere near perfectly good. lol. they use a stock painted pressure plate so they wont hold the power.

                the jetting was fine, but like i said i found other fuel system problems the i am fairly sure led to the problem. i had 32 miles on that engine when it went, so i got rid of everything that was attached to it, more so for peace of mind.

                like he said ^^^ about the booster pump
                97 sc1-- DOHC swap, P&amp;P head, race cams, AEM CAI, geo TB, eclipse 4-1 header, lsd, act clutch, fidanza FW<br /><br />na<br />14.9 @91mph<br />50 shot <br />[email protected]<br /><br />forged motor coming soon..<br /><br />vids<br />http://videos.streetfire.net/profile/bo ... dewayz.htm

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

                  Originally posted by boostinsidewayz
                  the problem with centerforce, from what i've heard about on hear, is even brand new, they are not anywhere near perfectly good. lol. they use a stock painted pressure plate so they wont hold the power.

                  the jetting was fine, but like i said i found other fuel system problems the i am fairly sure led to the problem. i had 32 miles on that engine when it went, so i got rid of everything that was attached to it, more so for peace of mind.

                  like he said ^^^ about the booster pump
                  Ok, that painted thing is something I had not heard... I never really had slippage except when I sprayed through a shift (bad times, but after it cooled down and some soft driving it gripped hard again). It was always tire traction loss for me. Like I said I can't waste a "perfectly good" working stage 2 clutch. For the amount of labor it takes to swap it out It's not gonna hurt to leave it in and just replace it later. And I can use it during NA break in (300 miles NA), jet tuning & dyno pulls.

                  32 Miles? did you not break it in? let the rings seat and all that jazz? I have no idea how many miles I put on mine (odometer is dead) before spraying on it after the rebuild, but it was about 2 tanks of gas, and on a Saturn that's about 450-650 miles.

                  So it's not necessarily the NOSzles that caused the problem you just gave up on them. did you only ever use the single fogger 50shot? or did you end up running the NOSzles at some point? Or is that just a build thread and it never made it into a driven car? I just looked up the price and $80 a part is painful... especially when I have 8 or 11 wet foggers in my Bits and pieces box, but I'll see how it goes.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

                    Originally posted by DasPirate
                    An inline pump won't do you any good since the stock pump can't get it out of the tank fast enough to supply it. There's no reason not to do the walbro, especially since it's so cheap.
                    My buddy had one on his turbo VR, but the Walbro is cheap and its what I had in my SR20DET 240SX so I know they work. I might take out the fuel tank and switch to a fuel cell anyways. I have not decided yet... It just depends.

                    THIS CAR IS GONNA COST ME MORE MONEY... but it will be well worth it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

                      my engine was broken in for 20 minutes, about 5 miles. the rings dont need more then that. thing felt absolutely amazing.
                      97 sc1-- DOHC swap, P&amp;P head, race cams, AEM CAI, geo TB, eclipse 4-1 header, lsd, act clutch, fidanza FW<br /><br />na<br />14.9 @91mph<br />50 shot <br />[email protected]<br /><br />forged motor coming soon..<br /><br />vids<br />http://videos.streetfire.net/profile/bo ... dewayz.htm

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Nitrous Build Car 94' SC2

                        Originally posted by boostinsidewayz
                        my engine was broken in for 20 minutes, about 5 miles. the rings dont need more then that. thing felt absolutely amazing.
                        hmmm... thats really a short break in, but what ever works I guess.

                        I'm almost to the point that I can start buying parts to build it... I've been in a money crunch, with buying a daily driver and fixing my 240SX enough to sell it. And it looks like I might be buying myself rods for x-mass... yay.

                        Comment

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