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leighv's 01 SL2 DD

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  • leighv's 01 SL2 DD


    2001 SL2

    A typical 5 speed DOHC, with decent interior exterior, but with a friendly rod knock when my dad got it for me for HS graduation. This would be a major step up from the '94 dodge intrepid, which departed with 262k miles. Anyhow, I have small plans for this car. With the motor rebuilt by me (and my dad's guidance), it should have a decent life. So far it doesn't burn any oil. I don't push it at all until I know it is warmed up.

    Plans:

    Trans:
    Mobil 1 synthetic ATF [yes]
    short throw shifter [yes]


    Suspension/brakes:
    KYB struts
    H&R sport springs
    17.5 mm rear sway bar
    Front strut tower brace [yes]
    Rear disk conversion [in progress]
    OEM alloys will happen eventually [in progress]

    Engine:
    maybe a drop in K&N filter
    keep changing oil with mobil 1

    entertainment:
    Pioneer DEH-11e [yes]
    4" dayton nd105-4 w/ custom transmission line box [yes]

    It will take me a good bit of time to accumulate the aforementioned parts, as I won't be blowing all my money at once at this. In fact, it will probably be another year (if not more) before everything is done. Patience!

    I have been tracking my gas mileage, too.
    http://www.fuelly.com/driver/leighv/sl2

    Rebuild pics:

    engine nom'ed on some ringlands


    and some stuck rings:


    <3 oil drainback


    shortblock








    So i've been driving this car since.... December IIRC.

    Almost had enough spare cash to start the suspension mods, but insurance happened.

    Since I somehow killed half the back lights for the gauge cluster when reinstalling the dash cover while installing a radio, i did a UV led backlight mod.

    In the picture you can see the lights directly, but not when I am driving. superbrightleds.com ftw.




    The transmission line box for the woofer is built, we just need an amp. Trying to work ebay...
    A wiring kit is on the way as well.
    One might question if this little woofer would be audible in the cabin of a turd. Yes it is, we tested the box.








    http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

  • #2
    Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

    looks like a good project so far. Resize your pics though please.
    98 SL2m - Intake, Raceland coilovers, daily driver
    94 SW2a>m - slammed and boosted 9 PSI - sloppymechanics.com inspired. Now owned by Importsdontlikeme.
    94 SC2m - Build in progress, Ford EDIS, 720cc's, stock engine, MS2v3.57 7 on the road again

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

      Looking good.

      Smart that you are going at is slow & cautiously regarding buy all the mods.
      Say what you mean and mean what you say.
      Talk is Cheap, Actions speak LOUDER than Words.
      I don't look for Street Races, they find Me !
      Keep it Real !

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      • #4
        Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

        So my radiator endtank cracked this morning. Had to buy an autozone replacement so I could get to work. Limited lifetime warranty FTW?

        A direct fit aluminum radiator is now on the list of must-have's. That, or I acquire welding skills and a welder.



        http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

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        • #5
          Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

          Great news! the new radiator finally stopped leaking from the drain valve.

          regarding audio, I bought a KAC-622 for powering the 4" woofer, and my friends and I installed it this evening. Sounds great for 4". I soldered and heat-shrink wrapped all the connections. pictures eventually...
          http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

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          • #6
            Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

            Massive win

            Google mapped some more... found a new JY that I somehow missed. A surprisingly well -condition White hot sc2 was found ... with a complete set of alloys!!!







            ohyea, decent (it seems) tires on them. I'm gunna try to cleanup/sand/polish the wheels a little. Hope I dont fuck up.
            http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

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            • #7
              Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

              So I installed the short throw shifter I bought from here recently. It's different, to say the least, I am not sure if it multiplies the need for better trans fluid or if its the nature of it. 3rd gear takes a strong arm to get it in.
              We'll see, though..
              http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

                Wheels are almost ready to go on. Getting used to the STS a little, as I don't miss 3rd as much anymore.

                I drained the regular dexron 3 atf from the trans, and put in some mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Took it for a drive around the neighborhood, and it was maybe a little better just putting along.

                Here was the old fluid:




                Not terrible, but not beautiful either. Wasn't quite brown so it wasn't too far gone.
                http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

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                • #9
                  Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

                  Gave it a good run today. Mobil 1 synthetic ATF > dexron 3

                  It's not night and day, but when it warms up it is very nice, even with the short throw shifter being finicky.
                  http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: leighv's 01 SL2 DD

                    Yay wheels! Tires aren't bad either.

                    http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Wow, here it is... can a mod delete

                      http://sixthsphere.com/showthread.ph...leigh-s-DD-SL2

                      Anyhow, started on my header+downpipe+cat delete. Using a spare block/girdle/mount to make everything fit right where stock parts are. Using a 4-1 header I bought off ebay a few years ago (lol!). This is helping me get better with the welder. 16 gauge is pretty easy to weld - at least one thing to make up for how tough it is.

                      Using a Hobart AutoArc 130 with inetub fluxcore - Thank you fellow sixthspherian who recommended it.

                      As you can see I made reducer from the 2.5" dia outlet of the header to 2" right after the flange. Figured 2.5" is a bit much for a stock or even slightly cammed LL0 (those are waiting).
                      It will stay 2" until the flange in front the resonator, then It's stock on back.




                      Also sandblasted and painted some steelies to take over my alloys for daily driving. I am going to use the alloys for AutoX since I can slap some 205/50's with a sticky compound on them.



                      http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

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                      • #12
                        Also, I am not terribly proud of my welding job on those flanges. Hopefully the brace by the girdle will take the brunt of the forces.
                        http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          It looks like you needed more heat on the flanges.
                          -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                          1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                          1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            When welding thinner and thicker pieces together, do you just bias the gun towards the thicker piece and turn up the heat/speed to what the chart recommends for the thickness?
                            http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I use enough heat for the thicker flange. Then you make little cursive "e's."
                              The top of the "e" should just touched the thinner stuff just enough to melt the thinner material and let the weld puddle contact it.

                              Or, the shape of the movement may be more like a "U". The bottom on the "u" is on the thicker material and you poke up just a little to the thinner material...both letter techniques will put the majority of the heat on the thicker piece.

                              Look up some mig vidoes on youtube. They can be really helpful.
                              -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                              1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                              1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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