Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Backfires at 5k in 3rd gear and up.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Satty98
    replied
    Yes the do. Its just tracing it down. By step by step. This has been the easiest car to work on and now i kwow my full electrical symptoms. I don't think I'll have any more questions except with the ms ill be running in bolth my sl2s

    Leave a comment:


  • SC2Sick
    replied
    Sweet. The nice thing about these cars is they're relatively simple to repair :P

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied
    Coil pack i cleand the ground and the cylinder 1 prong witxh was corroded. It needs to be swapped out but it runs a hell of a lot better than it did so I'm just going to buy all new coil packs these be done anyways I'll go from there

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied
    I've done a compression test I'll try to upload them here to show you guys results. ignition modulator I did have a problem with that a while back I in just swaped icms a wile back. Im finding out every duralast part I get from autozone. Has been failing within 4 to 6 months. Like its brand-new. Ilk di a full test this weekend. The cps was the main problem. Then after i got her well runnjng. Come to find out she wouldn't go past 5K that's about this whole subscription I did this has been an ongoing battle I finally said screw it bought a standard ignition CPS and also she fired right up 5K backfire gone but also after all that I've been having issues with my car I changed my O2 sensor air temperature sensor temperature block sensor idle air control valve which I have sought three more of those so that's not an issue the wires I possibly need to change they are MSD and lately I don't like the product I've been impressed with their product. Changing the temperature block sensor air temperature sensor cleared up a lot of the mess Mo see what she does a low RPMs she struggles it feels like something to do with the fuel. Because when I had about 3800 RPMs she starts to go go buck wild like it's back to normal high RPMs though it's strans. This is why I'm getting confused that have mid levels of operation she just fine but at low and high are RPMs she struggles if this info I just gave you give me a little more helpful for you let me know I will try a full ignitions test this Saturday kids are out for the day.
    Ps thank you for that information

    Leave a comment:


  • saturnspeed_12
    replied
    Never rely literally on what the diagnostic code says. This is where datalogging is great to have. The codes lead you to what might be causing the issue. The fuel pump relay will either work or not. It won't go in and out. If it somehow did, there is a different reason behind why it is happening. The check valve thing with the fuel pump concerns me as it is not needed. Fuel pressure will bleed off as it sits, and is perfectly acceptable. That is why the ecu primes the pump upon key on. I wouldn't go about swapping to a return style fuel system till this issue is resolved. Modifying a system while there is an issue is a recipe for further issues.

    It might be worth checking spark. Checking ICM surface to trans, primary and secondary coil resistance, plug wire resistance. It kind of sounds like a potential for weak spark. The other thing is have you done a compression check?

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied
    I cant find the receipt that has the code on it but the code basically said Bank 1 high circuit which lady was saying the brand new O2 sensor I just got is bad already already clear the codes and it came back on again I did change the temperature block sensor and air temperature sensor that cleans it up a lot but still has hesitations about 2nd gear now so I'm thinking it's something to do with the fuel pump more of the fuel pump relay sometimes I don't hear that pump click on but I cranker over and it takes about a few seconds then she starts right up I let it sit for a minute warm up a little bit and I did a few tests on it when I try to get on it well while she's warming up she hesitates really bad at about 4,000 5000 RPMs but after she fully warms up it goes away slightly I'm really thinking the fuel pump relay might be going in and out causing lean-to Rich mixtures at random times I looked up what Sam call me about the pump once it's on it's on but the relay controls the flow to the injectors now with this quantum fuel pump I didn't get the check valve that the highly recommended me to get to keep it hold pressure I wonder if that little fucking check valve also might be the problem it's a returnless system I'm about to just converted to return fuel system I found a 97 wagon with a full complete untouched return fuel system if you have any thoughts sarurnspeed don't be shy. Sam I know what you know you're going to put your good Yoda advise. This is my daily which I will be running a mega squirt and it here soon probably for a little boost getaround car my other one will be hiboost which I'm working on right now on the side

    Leave a comment:


  • saturnspeed_12
    replied
    What codes are being set? This can help a lot. Also, once the engine is warmed up and you are moving, where is your temperature gauge at?

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied
    Oh yeah. I just replied the cam timming completely. I have done that prosses on these turds many times. I know thats diled in. I doest run rough i just have to keep on the throttle wile taking off. Then at 4k she flys

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied
    Thats what i wanted to know thank you sam. Could it have a chance that the duralast cps messed up my temp sensor. Iv see it done. But i do not know if every car effects the same way. It looks like im going digging this weekend

    Leave a comment:


  • S.Bretz
    replied
    Originally posted by Satty98 View Post
    Just about everything autozone has now is crap almost. Im just got an o2 from them its a denso but im getting a bank 1 high circuit readings. I dont know whatbis causing that. At low rpms she slugs really bad until i giver some gas. And about roughly 3800 she rips right up. The pump did sugest a check valve to be installed they have one for my pump for 8 dollors. Do you think that the pump is keep good pressure at lower rpms with the ecm is telling what the stock pump is supposed to do. Any thoughts guys.
    The pump is either on or off. The PCM doesn't send it any "signal". The pcm activates a relay and that relay stays on while the engine is running.

    With it being a turd a low end I would start with the coolant temp sensor and inspect the EGR valve for sticking open.
    Cam timing being off could make it run like shit too.
    Also, you can go over the wiring to the o2 sensor and make sure it is not chaffed and getting a short to voltage or short to ground.

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied
    The pump is capable of puting out 14 volts. My battery is in need of replacing. So you you think i have lost of voltage. Ill do a volt check. Its a big possiblity that my battery is shot

    Leave a comment:


  • saturnspeed_12
    replied
    Voltage to the pump won't be the issue, unless you are somehow pushing probably 16+volts to it and the fuel filter regulator is not functioning. You should have at least 44psi with the engine running. There is an absolute minimum of 40psi, but with voltage that low, you either need a new alternator or figure our why voltage to the pump is low.

    Leave a comment:


  • Satty98
    replied
    Saturnspeed_12 i i kindov figured. Im going to hook up my wideband and see how ric he im running then. These Saturn's are way different then a honda lol. Im going to find a way to lean it out a little. Im old school resistors lol. I know its not healthy for tbe pcm. But pcms are a dime and a dozen. Now i know this quantum fuel pump is really working. Its Its the voltage signals run higher

    Leave a comment:


  • saturnspeed_12
    replied
    High O2 readings means that it is running rich. As of fuel pressure, hook a gauge up and find out. It is the only way you will know. If it is returnless, the fuel filter controls pressure. The pcm just commands the relay to power the pump with ignition on.

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

There are no results that meet this criteria.

Working...
X