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Vr wireup questions for the ms2

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  • Vr wireup questions for the ms2

    Hay guys I've been wiring up my ms2 3.0 on my 98 s series. I'm going to attempt fuel management only on low boost 8psi first till I can get familiar with the ms. Im going to tune for n/a fist. To get things started. Them slap in the in my t3 and start with 5psi and tune my way up to 8psi with fuel management. I have everything wired in but the vr. Iv been searching for a good view or wiring setup for the vr. It is the msextra 3.0 install manual. But I'm confused. The wight wire is positive and the black is negative. But the silve wire that come to the side of shielded wire to the vr. IS THAT A GROUND IF SO where do I ground it to. I feel like a dumb ass. Even that vr wireup that Aaron posted. It seems that it looks like its wired up to a ground. I'm a little lost on one wire and its holding me back.

  • #2
    The shielding portion gets grounded to. You can use any of the ground pin outs on the db37..then are all attached to the same ground plane on the PCM.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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    • #3
      someone may want to confirm but isnt the shield only grounded on one end?
      http://www.sixthsphere.com/smf/index.php?topic=62687.0

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      • #4
        That's where I'm confused. Would it hurt to try. This is the only thing that's stopping me from the long and tedious days of tunning lol. S. Beets I'm going to try your way. You have been giving alote of good info. And if seen your work on YouTube. That rear wheel drive s series was dop.

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        • #5
          Screenshot_20190722-153442_Drive.jpg
          But Aaron ha his ran like what s. Brets is saying. I am running obd2. Not obd1. It is a little bit different to wire then obd1 exspshly with ignition it's more like different color of wires. But the grounds I'm running to my transmission bolts. Is that a good solid ground. I'm still running test with my volt meter around my hole chassy seeing if I can get a good solid ground.

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          • #6
            All the grounds for the MS sensors need to be grounded back to the MS itself and then run a ground wire or two out to transmission bolt.

            I would not ground both ends of the shielding. You don't want current to flow through it. The shielding works by having the negative side of the system flood the shielding wrap with electrons and staying there. If you connect both ends and current flows through it can cause noise... and will most likely burn out the thin foil that the shield is made out of.

            You will want to make sure you MS is set up for a VR input and then turn the POTs as recommended.
            -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
            1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
            1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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            • #7
              Thank you Bret. That's something I didnt know. So leave it alone. This weekend I hope to get this turd tuned and started. My board for vr. That was one of the first things I did. And adjusted r57 and r54 counter clockwise 12 times. I set everything up that I needed except like lunch control and all the fun stuff. But Matt told me from DIYAUTOTUNE I have to wire everything up except the ignition to run a fuel management. I'm o my doing this to get down and dirty with learning Ms. Sofare it's not heard and but I did sit down for hours bench testing learning the program. I did buy the extended version where it has assist tune more options than the free version. Well worth 60 dollors. I mounted the turbo. It's a tight fit with the turbo I have and 2g dsm header. I had to get an adapter from a tdo5 to t3 other then that. I'm rerouting the lower radiator lines so I can keep them clear fro the exhaust. I'll send pics to show you guys. I have just enough room for a 2.5 downspout it may look like it won't work with the pic but when I'm done you'll see. Other then that. I hope my fan comes in this week also. Low profile 12in.

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              • #8
                Screenshot_20190724-214357_Gallery.jpg
                Everything isn't all bolted in yet cuz I was doing measurements for my downspout my friend will done with it tomorrow. But you can see the hoses are still in the way for now.
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Looks about right...no room for a fan after install. You may be able to get a smaller fan on the radiator that is opposite the turbo. Also, a turbo blanket is a good idea to keep radiant heat of the radiator.
                  Make sure you get a good, high AMP pusher on the front of the radiator on the turbo side of the radiator too. Don't be fooled by high CFM fan numbers when you go shopping for fans. Find the ones with the highest amp draw and you are good to go.


                  amps X volts = power.

                  More power moves more air, period...especially when there is a restriction like a radiator impeding the air flow.

                  Since your system voltage will be relatively constant, the only way to get a more powerful fan is to have one that draws more amps.
                  Last edited by S.Bretz; 07-28-2019, 03:07 PM.
                  -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                  1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                  1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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                  • #10
                    I was thinking on going duel pusher. Would that be ok for our cars. Or should I go with a pusher and a puller. I was going to run one off of the ms and the other one for when I'm in town. And I want to keep my car cool wile in traffic. Witch isn't too bad here but it gets hot as fuck during the summer. Carid sent the wrong fans they were 10in fans. Witch isn't bad. But you mentioning about the amperage. They were 8v. Would 12 amp fans work . What would you go with

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                    • #11
                      I would try to find something closer to the 20amp range if you can.

                      I will update later...right now on the can at eork and typing on a cell phone is a pita.

                      The re
                      -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                      1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                      1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I used to run a larger 13" pusher fan on the turbo side of the radiator and then a smaller puller fan. In my setup I could use only one puller but you may be able to get away with two 8" pullers on the driver's side.
                        Get as much fan in there that you can. The stock unit is very strong and moves a crap-ton of air. Losing the stock fan and replacing it with any aftermarket stuff can be tough as the aftermarket stuff is not as strong as the OEM saturn stuff.

                        If you can find something with a shroud, that will help too.
                        If you use a fan that can be pusher/puller, make sure to read the instructions. Some will require the fan to be flipped around and some may need the wiring reverse. Always test the airflow before you install it. All you need is a sheet of paper. Start the fan and place it up to the grill/cage. If it sucks in, it is set as a pusher. If it blows away, it is set to pull.
                        -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                        1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                        1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

                        Comment

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