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  • Replace Transmission Mount Bushings?

    I have two SC2s, and intend to replace all engine and transmission mounts on both.

    I have read that you can just replace the bushings on the dog bones.

    Is that true?

    And if so where would I look for the bushings and how can I know what will fit?

    I have also heard that poly milkbone bushings make a more responsive ride. What do y'all think about that (pros, cons, personal experience)?

  • #2
    The dog bone inserts are sold by Energy Suspension and are manufactured by Prothane. You can also get them on eBay and sometimes Amazon; The Prothane part number is 7-510. They press into an GEN3 OEM dog bone; not the earlier versions.

    https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7510

    Last edited by trottida; 11-13-2018, 07:27 AM.
    Current
    1999 SL2 MT (272K km, 10-2016 to present)
    2001 SL1 MT (428K km, 10-2008 to present)

    Past
    1993 SW2 AT (03-2000 to 04-2010)
    2001 LW200 MT (06-2001 to 01-2005)
    1992 SL2 MT (06-1992 to 09-1997)

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    • #3
      Does anyone know the energy suspension bushing part numbers for the SDA dogbones?


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

      Interested in a solid engine management system? Ask me about Electromotive engine management.

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      • #4
        I just replaced all four mounts in my SC2. The dogbone round bushings were loose on both while the oval bushings were still solid. So I assume that will happen again in time.

        I'm wondering, if I get the prothane bushings and only replace the smaller bushing with the poly and leave the big one plain old rubber, could I potentially get the best of both worlds, slightly stiffer mounts, with better longevity, but without the harshness of replacing both bushings...

        What do y'all think the results might be?

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        • #5
          I had the prothane inserts. The didn't make it stiff. A solid torque axis mount will make the car stiff. I did that for a while and got tired of the rattlestar galactica ever time I took off from a light so I started using OEM torque axis mounts and it did't shake any more.

          If you do use the prothane mountes, you will need to put a fender washer on the big end of the mount on the trans side. My mount used to try and walk off the bolt/center insert until I installed a large fender washer to prevent that from happening.
          -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
          1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
          1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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          • #6
            Was there a noticeable improvement in the feel of the car with the prothane dogbone inserts?


            Sent from my rotary phone using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              IMO, only if the originals are shot or if you are launching all the time.

              FYI, the mounts that *look* like 3rd gen mounts that parts stores sell are not dimensionally identical - you can't press a prothane insert into those.
              ilostmysocketwrench | Bentra Motorsports Blog | Bentra Motorsports Videos

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              • #8
                The inserts in the dogbones don't cause the harsh vibration but they do allow the power transfer to the wheels to happen a little sooner. The launch (and shifts after) feel a little more response. They will be the last set of mounts you will need for the dog bones. The urethane is supper tough, it is like vagina, that shit just doesn't wear out.
                -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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