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  • Brake confusion

    '99 SC2 3-door w/ ABS

    The brake pedal is mushy and can be pressed all the way to the floor without locking the brakes (or engaging the abs). The brakes have been bled multiple times and i've double checked with friends and tech's who've also bled the brakes at times with me to make sure i'm not doing anything retarded and it doesn't appear to make a bit of difference. the brake booster appears to be good according to the test listed in the haynes manual. i'm starting to suspect the master cylinder but i don't want to swap that unless i've no other choice...

    Does anyone have any further suggestions for things that i might be missing or things i might check next before i goto swapping the master cylinder?
    He who won't read has no advantage over he who cannot. Repeat after me: Investigate. Learn. Discover. Ignorance is not bliss.

  • #2
    You don't have a leak anywhere that air is getting in do you?

    Almost sounding like a MC to me too.

    --Adam
    2002 Subaru WRX - 2012 Yeti SB66 MTB

    http://www.facebook.com/adam.koback

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    • #3
      since you are competent enough to bleed them, i am sure you already did this, but are any of your lines leaking? do you need new shoes or pads? new drums maybe? Check everything, hell wheel cylinder or cylinders, depending on if both are bad.

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      • #4
        bleed the mc before you replace it. also sounds like a leak/air in the system to me

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        • #5
          new rotors and pads all around (rear disc conversion). i don't see any fluid leaking out of the system anywhere either in the engine bay or along the lines or at the calipers themselves. *sanity check* its not possible to have air leaking into the system without fluid leaking out the system, correct? all my fittings are tight and leak free on both ends of the hard lines. the resevoir on top of the MC does wobble a little bit but no fluid escapes around the edges or anything.

          what is the procedure for bleeding the master cylinder? is it different from bleeding the rest of the system (starting at the farthest wheel and working to the closest)?
          He who won't read has no advantage over he who cannot. Repeat after me: Investigate. Learn. Discover. Ignorance is not bliss.

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          • #6
            Dont you need the tec-2 to bleed the abs module?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Brandon94sc2
              Dont you need the tec-2 to bleed the abs module?
              yes
              99 Saturn Blackberry SL2
              <br />
              <br />7/17/2006

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              • #8
                try bleeding w/ the key on
                its worked on other gms
                sigpic-VOLVO 745T 175K MBC ...
                - 9 BOLT Aluminum Intake 3rd gen sedan... Beige... 160K

                You're so crazy! enough in a way that i'll probably say you destroyed me!
                ~The Used

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                • #9
                  The MC needs to be benched bled before u throw it on. My friend has the same problem and he was fixing it tonight.
                  2002 Saturn SL1- 5 speed, basic, slow, and staying that way.
                  1993 Lexus SC300- Project turning into gold...

                  Formerly knows as "Saturntuner05."
                  Too many past turds to list.

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                  • #10
                    he never replaced the MC. And it can be bled on the car. Just do it like you do the calipers. Have someone pump, hold, crack open a line, tighten, repeat. Keep doing it till you think you got all the air out.

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                    • #11
                      If you can get the abs to lock up that will help. It will cycle fluid through there hopefully pushing the bubbles with it.

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                      • #12
                        Supra: which lines? are you talking about the hardlines off the MC or the two little nozzles on the front of the MC that look like they're for bleeding? I've never bled an MC before so i'm noob'n it here.

                        Brandon: i have no chance of locking the brakes up ATM, brakes are very very mushy
                        He who won't read has no advantage over he who cannot. Repeat after me: Investigate. Learn. Discover. Ignorance is not bliss.

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                        • #13
                          the master cyclinder must be bench bleed to acheive maxium braking, if you put a new mc on the car it need to be bench bleed.
                          ----- http://www.superchevy.com/technical/cha ... 9sc_bench/
                          -----

                          when you get a new master cylinder it should come with directions on how to set it up for a bench bleed... this must be done on mc change, trust me I just did a brake conversion upgrade to a 1966 GMC 1/2 ton, the brake system will not bleed properly!!
                          Just google ->bench bleeding a master cylinder, you'll get plenty of links.

                          Tony
                          06' Ion 2
                          09' WRX

                          ...The distinction between past, present, and future is only a stubbornly persistent illusion... Einstein

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                          • #14
                            you shouldnt have to bleed it on a bench. You can do it without even taking it off the car, its actually easier that way. and using the lines looped into the res. is better/easier if you have the lines. But you can do it just by cracking open the lines as someone pumps the pedal. Take a good pic of your mc, if it has bleed screws on it then that's prolly the way to do it. But I'd have to see what you are talking about.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by SupraCharged007
                              you shouldnt have to bleed it on a bench. You can do it without even taking it off the car, its actually easier that way. and using the lines looped into the res. is better/easier if you have the lines. But you can do it just by cracking open the lines as someone pumps the pedal. Take a good pic of your mc, if it has bleed screws on it then that's prolly the way to do it. But I'd have to see what you are talking about.

                              He is right. You can do it easier in the car. There are bleeders on the ABS module you can open up. Treat it like it was a caliper. Pump. hold, loosen, tighten, pump, etc. You dont need a tec2 to bleed it, but it sure does make it easier. Not impossible though, just takes some patience and a friend to pump and hold for ya....

                              If while you were bleeding them, the fluid got too low, you can get air in it easily, and not as "easy" to get it out of.
                              OMG. I own too many saturns. Help me RAWR.

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