Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

battery relocation Q

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • battery relocation Q

    im relocating my battery to the trunk... where do i hook the positive cable to under the hood? to the terminal on the UHFB? im using some 0-ga aluminum cable (free BTW... courtesy of a 6-inch burnt spot in a 40 foot APU power cable hehe)


    Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut. -Ernest Hemingway

  • #2
    I used a 3 way distribution block to connect the 2 gauge wire from thr trunk, to the 4 gauge going to the alternator and another 4 gauge going to the fuse block.

    You can see it here,



    2 gauge coming into the bottom, and splits out to alternator on left and fuse block on right.

    --Adam
    2002 Subaru WRX - 2012 Yeti SB66 MTB

    http://www.facebook.com/adam.koback

    Comment


    • #3
      or you could just hook it straight to the starter and leave the stock cable running to the fuse block

      Comment


      • #4
        Nice setup Adam.

        Mine was simpler lol. I ran the two gauge wire from the battery to the back of the starter and then ran another six guage wire from the same location on the starter to the UHFB. Basically following where the oem red wire path (from UHFB to battery and to starter) was previously.

        After removing the oem red wire I then removed the black ground wire since I did not want the black neg battery terminal wire hanging in the bay. I simply rigged up a nice two gauge ground wire from the large trans bolt to the frame by the UHFB.

        Originally posted by Supracharged007
        or you could just hook it straight to the starter and leave the stock cable running to the fuse block
        The problem with that is the positive battery terminal. The oem part is all one piece and you don't want that thing hanging around the bay with 12v running through it and covering it up looks crappy to me. I just think it looks much cleaner to route new wiring for both.
        1993 SW2 - Slow and Low

        Comment


        • #5
          to the starter it is!! i plan on removing the stock cables in the engine bay and running my own. thanks fellas


          Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut. -Ernest Hemingway

          Comment


          • #6
            I just cut the stock cable and put those ends on them that let you put a bolt threw them....then bolted the three cables together and taped the shit out of the union. It works pretty well considering it was done pretty ghetto.


            I like that union block though, looks pretty simple and clean.
            -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
            1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
            1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by S.Bretz
              I just cut the stock cable and put those ends on them that let you put a bolt threw them....then bolted the three cables together and taped the shit out of the union. It works pretty well considering it was done pretty ghetto.


              I like that union block though, looks pretty simple and clean.
              that would be a good temporary solution for me, but i dont wanna hafta do it twice. i like the union block as well, but those are usually a metal block encased in plastic, with screw holes in the plastic for mounting. i know it would probably be fine, but i dont trust sheet metal screws through brittle plastic being the only thing keeping my power cable from flopping around. but thats just me...im anal about that kind of stuff.


              Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut. -Ernest Hemingway

              Comment

              Related Topics

              Collapse

              There are no results that meet this criteria.

              Working...
              X