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  • 2 intake cams (COMPLETEd)

    I am going to do this mod today or tommorrow, and I want to know if I will run into problems. First I will be doing it IN the car. I will be grinding the nub off the head(got some good latex blankets to lay all around it. I need to know if it is hard to remove the timing cover and aproximately how long will it take. I will be doing this to a 3rd gen, and does ANYONE know if it has ever been done to a 3rd gen. That should be enough to start it up, thanx.
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  • #2
    Timing chain cover isn't hard to remove, just a pain in the ass to remove. Lots of bolts and very little space to work in....plus you somehow gotta get it re-sealed...

    Follow therob's guide on in-car camshaft replacement, you might be able to do it without pulling the TCC.
    -2002 Saturn SC2 - Clean, slow, low daily
    -2008 Saab 9-7x Aero
    -1996 Suzuki Bandit 750 swapped
    -1998 VW Golf GTI VR6 Mid Engine LeMons car
    -1986 RX7 - 275whp @ 10psi

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    • #3
      1 down, thanks Nathan. Main one is the trird gen question, I don't mind being a guenypig but I don't want to open a bad bag of squid chips here. second is grinding in the head with a latex blanket should be good, but should I do an oil change aftr to be sure? and how long should I wait to do it?
      sigpic

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      • #4
        if you do the broom handle gimmick to hold the cam gears and you hear any kind of a click then you will have to remove the timing cover to reset the chain tensioner.
        2007 chevy classic 2500hd 4x4 duramax
        1996 383 lt1 auto trans am
        1995 sl1. single cam of fury
        1995 jeep wrangler lifted 4x4 4.0
        1995 ford explorer 4x4

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        • #5
          Originally posted by dream36realms
          1 down, thanks Nathan. Main one is the trird gen question, I don't mind being a guenypig but I don't want to open a bad bag of squid chips here. second is grinding in the head with a latex blanket should be good, but should I do an oil change aftr to be sure? and how long should I wait to do it?
          Someone did it with a 3rd gen, I thought. I'd go ahead and use the blankey and then change the oil after letting it idle for a few minutes.
          -2002 Saturn SC2 - Clean, slow, low daily
          -2008 Saab 9-7x Aero
          -1996 Suzuki Bandit 750 swapped
          -1998 VW Golf GTI VR6 Mid Engine LeMons car
          -1986 RX7 - 275whp @ 10psi

          Comment


          • #6
            Magnet?
            [quote author="shortbus"]Stage 2 is great. Its covered by warranty, better fuel economy, the eaton screams louder so deer wont jump onto the road, it makes girls get wet, and the emissions produced will not kill songbirds or melt glaciers.[/quote]<br />[quote author="retardpartol"]...who is sober and noton any kind of intoxication whether is be ibuprophin[/quote]<br />LSJ phun

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            • #7
              thanks I will try tommorrow, my mother-in-law is trying to make my wife and I fight because she "feels" we are bad parents.
              If I use the broom trick, how much pressure does it need and from which side because I will have to lower the cam and rotate it into the opposite position +1(or -1 forgot at this moment). I will use another person to accomplish this, probably pulling while I move the sprocket into position.
              sigpic

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              • #8
                there's no way you'll be able to move the sprocket without losing tension in the chain.
                -2002 Saturn SC2 - Clean, slow, low daily
                -2008 Saab 9-7x Aero
                -1996 Suzuki Bandit 750 swapped
                -1998 VW Golf GTI VR6 Mid Engine LeMons car
                -1986 RX7 - 275whp @ 10psi

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by The Shaolin
                  there's no way you'll be able to move the sprocket without losing tension in the chain.
                  hmm, guess it all has to come down then. maybe in two weeks when I got some time. Thing is I don't want to be stranded without a car for 3 days because the DIY shop is closed mondays and Tuesdays, and I am NOT confident I could pull the belts/TC in less than 12 hours. OK is it hard to reset this tentioner with everything torn down?
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by dream36realms
                    Originally posted by The Shaolin
                    there's no way you'll be able to move the sprocket without losing tension in the chain.
                    hmm, guess it all has to come down then. maybe in two weeks when I got some time. Thing is I don't want to be stranded without a car for 3 days because the DIY shop is closed mondays and Tuesdays, and I am NOT confident I could pull the belts/TC in less than 12 hours. OK is it hard to reset this tentioner with everything torn down?

                    Haha...seriously could have it together and apart TWICE in 12 hours....
                    -2002 Saturn SC2 - Clean, slow, low daily
                    -2008 Saab 9-7x Aero
                    -1996 Suzuki Bandit 750 swapped
                    -1998 VW Golf GTI VR6 Mid Engine LeMons car
                    -1986 RX7 - 275whp @ 10psi

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OK I'll try tommorrow. I will print up the how to and then use the chiltons, anything I should be worried about? other than RTV and new belt?
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Just make sure you do it correctly.

                        Taking off the chassis mount where the TAM connects makes it much easier cause you have way more room.

                        A ratcheting 10mm wrench will allow you to get a lot of those bolts out/in way faster.

                        Look on plastikracing, they have nate's pics of where to retard etc on the two intake trick.

                        Pack the oil pump with some vasoline and turn the car over for a bit with the fuel pump fuse out so that your sure oil has been bent sent through the system and that the pump is primed.

                        Let it all sit once you RTV it for at least 2 hours while 24 is prefereable.

                        Don't worry about smearing the RTV everywhere when you put the TCC back on in the car, it's just a bitch.

                        Using a screwdriver and hammer gently tap the TCC off the block/head.

                        Don't worry about pulling, twisting, etc, your gonna have to do all sorts of wierd shit to get the TCC off in car.

                        DO NOT OVER TORQUE bolts, many of them or their cast mounts/holes will break very easily, such as the idler.

                        Unplug the PCM b(?) fuse or the battery while you work.

                        The powersteering pump bracket can be a real bitch to get back on properly, take your time, it will work.

                        Put wood on the jack and jack up the engine via the oil pan and then put a block of wood between the frame and the bracket that the motor mount is attached too, TCC side.

                        Lots of this shit, read bolts, you can get from the bottom going up.

                        Use a 14mm wrench to move the idler out of the way so you can get @ the upper bolt, it's really easy.

                        You do not need to remove the water pump.

                        Be careful about the 4 bitchass oil pan bolts on the bottom of the TCC and make sure you get enough RTV on there to seal properly. Hand seat them carefully.

                        I'm assuming you can get the crank pulley off.

                        Make sure all your timing marks are on and use the 1/8" drill bits or whatever fits to hold it there.

                        I can do a head swap in about 3 1/2 hours in car, just need someone to help me lift it off and on. So, go slow, don't freak, and you will do fine. My car is a second gen so it might be a little different than your 3rd.
                        Plastikracing intake cam pics and instructions. Might talk to nate over there too.
                        http://forums.plastikracing.net/viewtop ... intake+cam
                        Originally posted by dream36realms
                        OK I'll try tommorrow. I will print up the how to and then use the chiltons, anything I should be worried about? other than RTV and new belt?
                        Oil change and new filter. I agree, start it let it run and idle down/warm up, then change the oil.
                        Oh yeah, the tensioner you just push the little tab on the bottom up or something with your fingernail and then slide the arm back so it is compressed. Then just put a finishing nail or something though the little hole to keep it from extending. You'll see what I am talking about when you start.
                        [quote author="shortbus"]Stage 2 is great. Its covered by warranty, better fuel economy, the eaton screams louder so deer wont jump onto the road, it makes girls get wet, and the emissions produced will not kill songbirds or melt glaciers.[/quote]<br />[quote author="retardpartol"]...who is sober and noton any kind of intoxication whether is be ibuprophin[/quote]<br />LSJ phun

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by liamrh
                          Magnet?
                          Good idea, but since it is aluminum it won't work.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Budman
                            Originally posted by liamrh
                            Magnet?
                            Good idea, but since it is aluminum it won't work.
                            Yeah, remembered after I posted all that crap.
                            [quote author="shortbus"]Stage 2 is great. Its covered by warranty, better fuel economy, the eaton screams louder so deer wont jump onto the road, it makes girls get wet, and the emissions produced will not kill songbirds or melt glaciers.[/quote]<br />[quote author="retardpartol"]...who is sober and noton any kind of intoxication whether is be ibuprophin[/quote]<br />LSJ phun

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                            • #15
                              Put a shop vac right by where you are grinding ad let it suck up the shavings.


                              You can remove the gear without losing tension. Its a pain on the intake, but on the exhuast side its not that bad. I would turn it to TDC and then just a cunt hair to counter clock wise to put the slack on the exhaust side of the crank, then drive in the dowels or what ever. YOu want the tension to go up and away from the engine. Loosen the cam bolt, and then tap it away from the cam...it should drive the tension tighter on the supports.YOu only need to move it toward the passenger's side about 1/8 of an inch...just enough to get he nub out.


                              .....But you need to remove the gear too.

                              SO here is waht you do....get 2 c-clamps and clamp the intake cam on both sides...put the clamps as far down as possibe so that it won't turn either way...ONE CLAMP WILL NOT WORK...Trust me, I think we fucked up on Joshes by using one clamp.

                              .... You will need to take the sprocket bolt out so you can move the sprocket off the cam (exhuast cam). Put a screw driver threw one of the hole incase you drop it. remove the cam, install new cam, and put the sprocket back one, but 180 out and 1 tooth retarded (I think, Might be advance...be carful..adv is clockwise, retard counterclockwise...that shit gets confusing sometimes).

                              Also, you should mark with link on the chain lines up with the dot or other mark on the gear. Spray it with brake cleaner and hit it with a sharpie..that mark will help you line witch tooth goes into witch link.
                              -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                              1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                              1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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