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So I tore apart the ol' 95.

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  • So I tore apart the ol' 95.

    My car was smoking REALLY bad, and i have been wanting to fix it for a couple of months now. now that i have 3 weeks off, i decided now would be a good time to rebuild it myself. i had no idea what was wrong with it, i didnt even check compression because i wanted to pull it out and rebuild it.

    I have it all stipped down to the block and crank now. the oil rings were stuck to the pistons, but not completly glued, so i dont think that was the major problem, then i rememeberd, i never even looked at the head. i just took it off and set it aside because im going to let a machine shop mess with that. well, i tipped it up and it was all black,wet,sooty. maybe im just crazy, but arnt the exhaust valves supposed to be tan and look kinda burnt like the spark plugs? speaking of spark plugs, the plugs had about 1000 miles on them, and they were black, and wet and the carbon had almost bridged the gap on one of them. the top of the pistons were wet with oil.

    i think the head is compleatly fucked. what i dont understand is, what happend? I drove it one day, and the next, it burnt so much oil i couldnt drive it.has anyone else had this happen to there car?

  • #2
    Re: So I tore apart the ol' 95.

    Originally posted by codytheoutlaw
    the oil rings were stuck to the pistons
    There you go. If you had to use any force or leverage to get them to move, they were (most likely) causing the smoking.
    07 Redline w/ stuff.<br /><br />89 Civic hatch w/o stuff.<br /><br />96 SL2 that dont need stuff.

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    • #3
      why did this happen over night?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by codytheoutlaw
        why did this happen over night?
        Uh, "User Error"
        [quote author="shortbus"]Stage 2 is great. Its covered by warranty, better fuel economy, the eaton screams louder so deer wont jump onto the road, it makes girls get wet, and the emissions produced will not kill songbirds or melt glaciers.[/quote]<br />[quote author="retardpartol"]...who is sober and noton any kind of intoxication whether is be ibuprophin[/quote]<br />LSJ phun

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        • #5
          i had the car for 3 weeks, so it wast my fault. i even drove it like a grandma. that is why you shouldn't but cars off your friends.

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          • #6
            i have some pics now.

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            • #7
              ok...the rings were coked & the ring gaps were aligned as in the pic above - yeah, that'll allow a bit of oil consumption.

              While you have it apart, drill some oil drain back holes in the oil control groove. Take a look at a forged piston and try to copy the locations for those....that'll cut down on the coking of the rings.
              LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
              visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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              • #8
                well, i already cleaned the pistons and put them back in. they wernt allined like that. i had moved them around. i dont want to sound like an idiot, but what does coking mean?

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                • #9
                  coking is burning oil deposites. That's what adheres the rings to the pistons, and plugs up control ring.
                  LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
                  visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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                  • #10
                    I hope you got the cylinders honed and got some new rings. Old rings dont really like to be re-used.

                    When i pulled my head, the valves were domed OUTWARD from all the deposits and what not. The ORIGINAL spark plugs were in it, go figure. Piston had 1/6" of carbon crap on them, and a couple whacks with a chisel got a chunk off so i can soak them in parts cleaner for about a week to let it loosen up. Oil burning cal also come from bad valve seals as well. After much consideration, i'm going to replace my valve seals even though i've never worked on a cylinder head other than installing rocker arms and pushrods.

                    Oh yeah, clean your intake manifold too. I bet you will find the entire inside coated with grime and crud. Took me 3 complete hours to get most of it out.
                    1995 SL2m &lt;- SOLD<br />1995 SL2a &lt;- SOLD<br />2003 VW GTI 1.8T 5M &lt;- TOTALLED<br />2009 BMW 128i 6M &lt;- DD

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                    • #11
                      Yeah that shit can get think in the intake manny. Find the most abrasive chemicals you can and test what works best...and then let it soak.

                      I cleaned the piss out of mine before I started chopping it up...and once I chopped it, there was still gunk where I couldn't see it. It owuld be nice to have a huge vate of warm carb cleaner to soak in in for a couple weeks, but in my case, once it was cut I took that shit out the quick way with the porting tools [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/biggrin.gif[/img]



                      Looks like the last pwner liked to do those 4-6K interval oil changes...once it gets crappy like that, by 2-3K miles, the oil is fucked and you prettymuch have to change it by 2K...We get some customers like that, they try to start taking care of it, but the damage is already done.


                      Useing an engein flush product every 10K miles or so will help break the softer coke outta the oil rings too....after you get the engein back together, run it for about 50 miles, drain and refill with clean oil, then go about 1K miles, after the engine is broke in nicly, but the oil is still clean, add the engine flush to the clean oil to get the crap outta the oil passages...then put your new filter and new oil in.
                      -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                      1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                      1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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                      • #12
                        ^^yeah, but remember, engine flush is not to be driven on.
                        Don't even rev the engine while that shit is in there.
                        LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
                        visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by codytheoutlaw
                          i had the car for 3 weeks, so it wast my fault. i even drove it like a grandma. that is why you shouldn't but cars off your friends.
                          User error is a general term and could mean anyone, not just you.
                          [quote author="shortbus"]Stage 2 is great. Its covered by warranty, better fuel economy, the eaton screams louder so deer wont jump onto the road, it makes girls get wet, and the emissions produced will not kill songbirds or melt glaciers.[/quote]<br />[quote author="retardpartol"]...who is sober and noton any kind of intoxication whether is be ibuprophin[/quote]<br />LSJ phun

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Green Monstah
                            ^^yeah, but remember, engine flush is not to be driven on.
                            Don't even rev the engine while that shit is in there.

                            You want high idle...1200rpm to increase the vacuum...it helps pull more "flush" into the rings.


                            pretty much what Green Bastard siad.
                            -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                            1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                            1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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