OK I am getting ready to put my head back on my engine and I have heard that I don't want to re-use the head bolts. I guess they are something called streach head bolts. Should I jsut spend the $30 and replace them?
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Head bolts????
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Ive only seen a handful of people reuse the head bolts. They are cheap enough for that extra insurance.
You can get arp's for around $100 maybe less by shopping around.English: Put it in the butt <br />Spanish: Metalo en el culo <br />French: Je vais t'enculer <br />Italian:Immettalo nel culo <br />German: Steck es ins Arsch ein <br />Dutch: Zet hem in het doelwit<br />Greek: Valto mesa sto kolo <br />Portuguese: Meta-o no cu <br />Russian: ?????? ? ??? (zasun' v zad) <br />Turkish: Gأ¶tأ¼ne koymak <br />Norwegian: Anbringer det i klubben <br />Armenian: Voreet Meche Beedee Khotem <br />Danish: Stik det op i roeven <br />Icelandic: Troddu أ¾vأ upp أ rassgatiأ° أ، أ¾أ©r <br />Japanese: Oshiri nioru
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I seen head bolts reused plenty of times at work (dealership). WHne you do your last pass(the torque to yeild pass), set the torque wrench to 60-62ft/lbs.If it clicks before you get to 90degrees, then stop.
I personally reused my head bolts 3 times...then upgraded to the ARP's. They are a pain with the washers and nuts, but are worth it.-6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.
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Originally posted by S.BretzS-series are torque yeild bolts as well.
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Originally posted by SupraCharged007yea, but im pretty sure it says in the manual that they can be reused on an S as long as they are in spec.
Wait for some ass to come in and be like "that's bad work to not replace them blah blah blah" when in actuallity the guy can't even get his HG to seal properly cause his block was dirty.[quote author="shortbus"]Stage 2 is great. Its covered by warranty, better fuel economy, the eaton screams louder so deer wont jump onto the road, it makes girls get wet, and the emissions produced will not kill songbirds or melt glaciers.[/quote]<br />[quote author="retardpartol"]...who is sober and noton any kind of intoxication whether is be ibuprophin[/quote]<br />LSJ phun
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Originally posted by JeremyI would replace them. Call me crazy.
1. I dont know if the factory head bolts were ever removed and re-used
2. They're cheap enough1995 SL2m <- SOLD<br />1995 SL2a <- SOLD<br />2003 VW GTI 1.8T 5M <- TOTALLED<br />2009 BMW 128i 6M <- DD
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Originally posted by SupraCharged007Didnt someone have a problem with snapping aftermarket headbolts? brent maybe?
I know it wasnt ARP studs, but I think I remember someone having a problem with aftermarkets. hmmmm [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_scratch.gif[/img] I can't remember
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yous knows what works real good when you run a tap down the block and clean the bolt threads w/ a wire wheel and use oil on them
most cyl head bolts are ttysigpic-VOLVO 745T 175K MBC ...
- 9 BOLT Aluminum Intake 3rd gen sedan... Beige... 160K
You're so crazy! enough in a way that i'll probably say you destroyed me!
~The Used
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^^^ I do that, but usually dont' retap the bolck. I have done that, it takes to long, and I get the same result by driving the bolts up and down a couple times with a clutched drill...works much more quickie-ier.-6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.
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