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    its easy. You'll need to jack up the engine from the oil pan, use a block of wood on a jack or something. Loosed the TA mount, (5) 15mm

    Get the wheel liner off and let the engine all the way down till it bottoms on the subframe. Put a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and twist clockwise. Take the belt off. Then take the bottom 10mm bolt out of the tensioner. Jack the engine back up and take out the top 10mm bolt. Swap out the tensioner bolt it back opposite you unbolted. route the belt around everything and do the 14mm wrench on the tensioner thing one more time. Then jack the engine back up and put on the 3 nuts that hold the mount to the engine. Line up the mount with the studs on the frame and gently let it the engine down. Tighten up those last two nuts and you are set.


    NOTE: You might not HAVE to do all the jacking up and down with the engine but it sure will make it easier. There is practically no room right there and I find jacking the engine up helps get it out much easier.

  • #2
    Do as Supra says you candy ass. It's not hard at all. [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_razz.gif[/img]
    [16:02] Ferrari166mm: so you&#39;re finally getting into real cars.<br />[16:02] adamkob32: I&#39;ve just had enough of racing a 100HP nutsack
    <br /><br />

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    • #3
      easy two bolt job... not too hard...

      just do as stated above, thats how I always did mine too
      [img width=600 height=150]http://www.sixthsphere.com/storage2/images/wejag665buljx09mu77e.jpg[/img]<br />99SL2 w/97SC2M Engine/Trans Swap, CAI, 2.25 Custom Exhaust

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      • #4
        Originally posted by ProjectSW1
        easy two bolt job... not too hard...

        just do as stated above, thats how I always did mine too
        Agreed.
        1993 SW2 - Slow and Low

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        • #5
          Put some wood or a dirty towel between the jack and the oil pan. The jack pad can rip holes in the oil pan.
          -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
          1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
          1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by SupraCharged007
            its easy. You'll need to jack up the engine from the oil pan, use a block of wood on a jack or something.
            lol what he said

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            • #7
              It didn't say that when I quickly scanned over it...so [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_nana.gif[/img]
              -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
              1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
              1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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              • #8
                didnt say??? damn engineers not double checking there own stuff [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/lol.gif[/img]

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                • #9
                  Not the best choice of jacks, but if it fits under the car compressed and you can fit a board between it and the oil pan you should be ok. Don't think you have to mess with the lower mount to do this job.
                  [quote author="S.Bretz"]I couldn't get mine off when I was 16, I had to have someone else that was stronger then me pull it off. He almost took it in the fore head. It was quite comical from my point of view.[/quote]<br />[quote author="ProjectSW1"]it should be licking my asshole whilst jerking me off and giving occasional tongue lashings to mah nuts... WHILE FLYING MY ASS TO VEGAS!!!!!!!!!!![/quote]<br />2005 Chili Pepper Red Redline - Carbon Fiber Badges, boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, GMPP 2-pass endplate, soon OTT Stage 1.

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                  • #10
                    the engine will sit on the frame, no big deal. And I wouldn't rec. using a bottle jack. If you have to, you MUST use a piece of wood or something on top of it. A rag isn't going to relieve enough of the stress

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by SupraCharged007
                      A rag isn't going to relieve enough of the stress
                      A Haynes manual will do nicely though [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/cool.gif[/img]
                      [16:02] Ferrari166mm: so you&#39;re finally getting into real cars.<br />[16:02] adamkob32: I&#39;ve just had enough of racing a 100HP nutsack
                      <br /><br />

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                      • #12
                        Any reson you would need an oem one? I like the plastic dayco one I just got.

                        <br />http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2044407

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by barristo
                          Any reson you would need an oem one? I like the plastic dayco one I just got.
                          You must be thinking of the timing chain tensioner, in which case the OEM one is the only one worth getting. I don't think the serpentine tensioner matters as much.
                          [16:02] Ferrari166mm: so you&#39;re finally getting into real cars.<br />[16:02] adamkob32: I&#39;ve just had enough of racing a 100HP nutsack
                          <br /><br />

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                          • #14
                            i would hope they wouldn't make a timing chain tensioner out of plastic

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by DasPirate
                              Originally posted by barristo
                              Any reson you would need an oem one? I like the plastic dayco one I just got.
                              You must be thinking of the timing chain tensioner, in which case the OEM one is the only one worth getting. I don't think the serpentine tensioner matters as much.
                              I was wondering why he said the OEM one was the way to go in the first post. [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/confused.gif[/img]

                              <br />http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2044407

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