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6x signal fault?

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  • 6x signal fault?

    I got this code popping up. When I started my car today, the RPMs were jumping all around and it stalled out on me a couple times. This is what 6S said about the code.

    The 6X output signal is a five volt square wave that is initially high. The signal switches
    low at each of the six. 60 degrees crankshaft position (CKP) sensor pulses. The 6X signal
    is used by the PCM for greater rpm resolution and in determining KS circuit (system)
    (knock retard) windowing.


    Diagnostic Trouble Code parameters:

    DTC 19 will set if:

    * Three 6X pulses do not occur between each reference pulse.
    * A 6X pulse does not immediately follow a reference pulse.

  • #2
    Try replacing the crank position sensor

    And check you wiring by the pcm and check for corrsion in the under hood fuse box and the tightness of the bolts in the fuse box.

    Tyr idleing it a wiggling the wires on the pcm side, and the controll module side to see if you have a bad connection somewhere.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by S.Bretz
      Try replacing the crank position sensor

      And check you wiring by the pcm and check for corrsion in the under hood fuse box and the tightness of the bolts in the fuse box.

      Tyr idleing it a wiggling the wires on the pcm side, and the controll module side to see if you have a bad connection somewhere.
      I figured it was the crank postition sensor.

      There isnt any corrosion in the fuse box.

      I started the car after I checked the codes and it started up just fine like nothing ever happened.

      BTW how hard is it to replace the sensor?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by 93 Saturn SL2
        Originally posted by S.Bretz
        Try replacing the crank position sensor

        And check you wiring by the pcm and check for corrsion in the under hood fuse box and the tightness of the bolts in the fuse box.

        Tyr idleing it a wiggling the wires on the pcm side, and the controll module side to see if you have a bad connection somewhere.
        I figured it was the crank postition sensor.

        There isnt any corrosion in the fuse box.

        I started the car after I checked the codes and it started up just fine like nothing ever happened.

        BTW how hard is it to replace the sensor?
        Back of the block if that gives u a idea.
        2002 Saturn SL1- 5 speed, basic, slow, and staying that way.
        1993 Lexus SC300- Project turning into gold...

        Formerly knows as "Saturntuner05."
        Too many past turds to list.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Saturntuner05
          Back of the block if that gives u a idea.
          yep, Autozone's repair info said the same too.

          Thanks

          Comment


          • #6
            The CPS is held in by 1 bolt, 10mm if my memory serves. Its easily accessable from under the car, but im not sure if you can really get at it good from the top. You will have to pull fairly hard. I actually had to push mine out from inside the block (i had my engine apart anyway) and when you install the new one in, put a little bit of oil on the o-ring.

            BTW the sensor is on the left, under the intake manifold if that gives you an idea.
            1995 SL2m &lt;- SOLD<br />1995 SL2a &lt;- SOLD<br />2003 VW GTI 1.8T 5M &lt;- TOTALLED<br />2009 BMW 128i 6M &lt;- DD

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Andy_95sl2
              The CPS is held in by 1 bolt, 10mm if my memory serves. Its easily accessable from under the car, but im not sure if you can really get at it good from the top. You will have to pull fairly hard. I actually had to push mine out from inside the block (i had my engine apart anyway) and when you install the new one in, put a little bit of oil on the o-ring.

              BTW the sensor is on the left, under the intake manifold if that gives you an idea.
              I planned on driving the car on ramps to get to it from underneath.

              Its weird, once the car is warmed up it runs fine then the engine cools down and its like fuckkk me!!

              Comment


              • #8
                Well I got up under the car today and I couldnt see a thing. I think I felt the CPS sensor, is it above the starter?

                Comment


                • #9
                  yes, you prolly wont be able to see it. If this is your first time changing it, it COULD be easier to just remove the starter.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SupraCharged007
                    yes, you prolly wont be able to see it. If this is your first time changing it, it COULD be easier to just remove the starter.
                    yea it is...

                    Ive never taken the started out either, so how hard is that?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      two bolts, and two nuts. only tricky part is the top bolt. You'll need a 6" extension and a 13mm. You can fit your hand on top the starter to guide the socket on there. I'm not guaranteeing that it'll be the easiest method but I think it would be for you.

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                      • #12
                        Remeber to disconnect the battery too.
                        -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                        1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                        1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

                        Comment

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