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  • #1

    Ignition Issues??

    So during my nitrous install from hell, I encountered an issue.

    Upon connecting my nitrous kit like the diagram provided to me, my car stalls when the arming switch is turned on. The car will just completely die out...then go into some kind of limp mode

    The thing is, this time...the car did not come out of limp mode! So right now I'm stuck with the fuckin car that feels like its riding on 3 cylinders. I'm pretty sure this is ignition related but I have no idea what to check. I've already changed the plugs back to stock, I even tried simply disconnected the battery. No luck, I can't really take this car to the dealer without tearing it apart so I wanna know what else you guys think I can check.

    Right now I'm getting a blinking CEL and it feels like its misfiring pretty bad. What else should I take a look at?

    Makes me just wanna fuckin rip this shit out and never touch this car again [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif[/img]
    [img width=461 height=118]http://i44.tinypic.com/2likitg.png[/img]
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Double check your wires and your grounds.
    2015 Ford Mustang - DD
    2013 Kia Sorento SX V6
    1978 Buick Century Custom - 42k Original Miles

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    • #3
      shot in the dark here the ignition module that sits on top the motor?
      Originally posted by ECOtec Gods
      Consider this: 800 hp is a lot on a 2.0L motor. With 750hp, three-quarters of a thousand you're basically dealing with 6.14 hp per cubic inch. Pressures and stresses of all kinds thermal and mechanical loading across the board escalate to extreme levels. A Chevrolet 5.7-liter LS1 V8 with this much specific power (horsepower per cubic inch) would be making 2,137 hp

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Tek
        Double check your wires and your grounds.
        see heres the thing, after the first time this happened I got pissed off and ripped the arming switch and window switch completely out of the car. it still acted the same way...

        so I re-installed them, in hopes of duplicating the problem and fixing the issue with no results.

        I just went to AutoZone and I'm throwing a random multiple cylinder misfire code and a TPS code. So I know its definitely related to my nitrous wiring...which I don't understand how this is possible in the first place. How can nitrous wiring between the relay, window switch and NMU effect your cars performance. the only thing that is even touching any existing wiring would be the TPS. Everything else, other than power wires are completely independent of the cars wiring.

        this is currently how I have the Zex kit wired in...



        the only difference is that with the relay I have, it comes with a wiring harness and the white & red wires are swapped.

        so what all should I be checking here, I've already changed plugs, the ignition module appears to be on securely. Don't know what else to look at...

        this crap truely makes me wanna just sell my entire setup, it should not be this difficult to get a running nitrous setup and now its effecting other parts of my car. maybe nitrous is just not for me [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/cry.gif[/img]
        [img width=461 height=118]http://i44.tinypic.com/2likitg.png[/img]

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        • #5
          does anyone have anymore ideas on what I could check?

          I have removed all nitrous wiring from the car and it is still misfiring. What could I have possibly damaged due to my wiring?

          also does anyone know the PN# for the ignition module?
          [img width=461 height=118]http://i44.tinypic.com/2likitg.png[/img]

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          • #6
            there's a chance you might have fried your ignition cassete module. I think mine might be going as well but I have a spare. did yours drop one or a pair of cylinders and then pick them up and smooth out after a second at first?
            -Vinny

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            • #7
              yeah basically it will start up and idle really low at like 6.5-7K then it'll jump up to about 9K and then smooth out to the norm idle rpm...

              but it continues to misfire, its shaken pretty bad like I have a bad mount and its running pig rich. i went through half a gallon of gas yesterday since i had to drive it to/from work.

              I'm gonna try ordering a new module from GM Parts Direct...
              [img width=461 height=118]http://i44.tinypic.com/2likitg.png[/img]

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              • #8
                you mean 650-700rpm and jump to 900rpm right? lol

                yeah I'm going to swap mine tonight and see if it helps, I have to realign my fogger too while I"m at it. already changed plugs too.
                -Vinny

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                • #9
                  so I put the new ICM in and everything is good as new. i wonder how I could have fried this thing...I think I might have a bad window switch.

                  I think this thing was going bad long before it finally went out because my cars power would completely shut off around 6K. I thought it was just the colder plugs but now I'm thinkin it was the plugs in combination with the crapped out ICM.

                  It feels much better with the new ICM and stock plugs.
                  [img width=461 height=118]http://i44.tinypic.com/2likitg.png[/img]

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                  • #10
                    wohoo i win
                    Originally posted by ECOtec Gods
                    Consider this: 800 hp is a lot on a 2.0L motor. With 750hp, three-quarters of a thousand you're basically dealing with 6.14 hp per cubic inch. Pressures and stresses of all kinds thermal and mechanical loading across the board escalate to extreme levels. A Chevrolet 5.7-liter LS1 V8 with this much specific power (horsepower per cubic inch) would be making 2,137 hp

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                    • #11
                      glad it worked for you, didn't for me
                      -Vinny

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                      • #12
                        ionNinja, how many miles you got on your car?

                        i got an 05 like you, and my ignition module went shortly after i installed my SAFC, so it seems to me like these things are fairly sensitive.
                        94 SC2, manual, the whore that won't die
                        96 SC2, auto, 146k, wife's car
                        96 Formula, LT1, T56, T-tops, gas guzzling whore

                        Malo Periculosam Libertatem Quam Quietum Servitium

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                        • #13
                          oh, I didn't see that last post...my car has about 24K on it.

                          my ignition coil is fine now...

                          BUT now I've got a P0420 code, catylist below efficiency or some shit like that and I can hear it tinging so I guess I toasted that bad boy during my ignition problems.

                          Eh well, time for a high flow cat, I needed to complete my exhaust anyway.
                          [img width=461 height=118]http://i44.tinypic.com/2likitg.png[/img]

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