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  • Port and Polish

    Alright, this one is for Monstah, who likes to confuse da fuck out of me cuz he nos i cant read well.... derr...... [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/read.gif[/img]

    Anyways, you said use the gasket for reference? please explain.

  • #2
    well, the gasket shows a maximum outer port size.
    What I mean by "use the gasket as a reference" is... if you intend to stay n/a or turbo, keep the port about 2-4mm in from the gasket edge...for big shots of nitrous, go to the gasket edge.
    It's easy to use the line around the port (soot ring) that the header or manifold will leave on the head.

    as for the inner parts of the head, reshaping the ports....do your best to shape the ports for a more direct airflow (more straight down) at the valves. This means reshaping the inner "bowl" area and the short radius side. ( not really possible to get a straight shot in the LLO head )

    some people like to shape them to smooth the transition, making a less arced approach to the valve, and that works too...but I like the "straight shot" to the valve to make a better tulip shaped cone of air over the valve.
    LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
    visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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    • #3
      are you suggesting larger porting for both the exhaust and intake side with a nitrous grind? I thought it was just the exhaust side, unless I'm confusing this with more duration on the exhaust cam, which I think I am.
      -Vinny

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      • #4
        I just read the last post in the other area....

        save your money man... you don't need oversized valves, titanium retainers, dual springs, etc.

        I would recommend the valves from SDA in stock size, and the valve seals from them as well....but only if you intend to really push the car. Otherwise, stock stuff will work just fine.
        LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
        visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Schizzo97SC2
          are you suggesting larger porting for both the exhaust and intake side with a nitrous grind? I thought it was just the exhaust side, unless I'm confusing this with more duration on the exhaust cam, which I think I am.
          I don't open the intake side any...no need for it. remove the casting flaws, and cut a few "riblets" into it....done.
          LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
          visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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          • #6
            that's what I thought

            riblet. that's a funny word.

            riblet.
            -Vinny

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            • #7
              hijack

              portabello - there's a funny one.

              manwich

              carnuba

              salamander

              any 3 syllable word that could mean boobies - (eg; ba-zong-as)

              yep, there are plenty of oddballs there.


              hijack over
              LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
              visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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              • #8
                I am going to have a more aggressive cams. I do intend on really pushing the car. As Vin stated, I do plan on nitrous, so, yeah, I'm probably looking for at least stronger valves. What do you mean by "riblets"? Do you mean grooves for more turbulence to the mixture? I was just planning on porting them, but if I don't have to, I'm pretty sure I can spot the casting defects with my eyes, and you're just saying to rough up the intake and polish the exhaust?

                Flat out, if porting isn't really going to help me run better with nitrous, just say it, and I'll just rough-up the intake, and polish the exhaust. I do know how to do that, that's how I cleaned my heads and intake manifold on my old S10. I've just never done a port job.

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                • #9
                  porting/polishing will DEFINATELY help out.

                  Intake riblets...use 40 or 50 grit paper, and scratch in the direction of airflow.
                  that's it...
                  and you won't miss the casting flaws...they come out first, then you scratch the riblets.
                  LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
                  visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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                  • #10
                    alright, so, if I'm lucky, I should hear back from either SDA or Patriot tomorrow about the templates, and how much they cost, if they're used.
                    So the oversized valves..... no..... yes...... your take, agressive cams and nitrous.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Green Monstah
                      . you don't need oversized valves, titanium retainers, dual springs, etc.

                      .
                      LSJ powered 1998 Chevy S-10 turbo
                      visit my Albums - http://sixthsphere.com/album.php?u=7267

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                      • #12
                        on the subject of cylinder heads
                        what does anyone who knows think a price on doin machine work on a dohc head would be i may have made a decision to build the engine for turbo on my 95 and its goin to be back burner
                        port polish valve job etc
                        sigpic-VOLVO 745T 175K MBC ...
                        - 9 BOLT Aluminum Intake 3rd gen sedan... Beige... 160K

                        You're so crazy! enough in a way that i'll probably say you destroyed me!
                        ~The Used

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                        • #13
                          Best bet, SDA forced induction head...... it'll be a lot cheaper than getting a port and polish depending on the shop. I was told for a standard port and polish, $1100, that's why I'm here.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by project92SC2
                            Best bet, SDA forced induction head...... it'll be a lot cheaper than getting a port and polish depending on the shop. I was told for a standard port and polish, $1100, that's why I'm here.

                            hahaha best bet is a machine shop that deals in p&p on heads. you are paying for sda's name. good luck with that.
                            2007 chevy classic 2500hd 4x4 duramax
                            1996 383 lt1 auto trans am
                            1995 sl1. single cam of fury
                            1995 jeep wrangler lifted 4x4 4.0
                            1995 ford explorer 4x4

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                            • #15
                              Good luck with machine shop prices, they usually run more, as I said, I was quoted $1100 for mine. That doesn't include surface area removal.

                              The lowest I was quoted was $900, still cheaper than SDA's heads. They have a reputable name, and are trusted among the Saturn community. I haven't bought from them YET, but I will.

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