Question before I begin to build in August.

[project92SC2]

I'm going to go high-comp. N/A...... I'm going to deck the head......
I was told that like every 0.006 of an inch increases compression by 1 point, is this true? I'm hoping someone here knows the answer to this, because, this is the first time I'm going to do anything like this, and I'm having my buddy do it before he leaves for Germany on a top of the line CNC machine..... and so far, what I want done will only cost me like $450, that includes a 3 angle valve job, and installing the +1.0mm valves and seals, which are going to be purchased separately, as they will be my little secret as to what kind they will be.....

[project92SC2]

Hey guys, can someone please help me with this question? I'm getting out of here in like, 3 weeks, and I'm going to start working on the ride...... need the info, Ian already told me the max I can deck the head under is 0.040, so I need to know, with 11.0:1 compression pistons, along with this, ROUGHLY what would my compression be..... doesn't have to be exact science, just need to know if it sounds feasible, and if it would work.... or would you recommend 0.020 under first? Just wondering, because I am working hard at getting this accomplished.

[S.Bretz]

12-12.5

[project92SC2]

so I'm looking at that, a 2.5'' full open exhaust, 91-92 headers polished, Ian's 3'' CAI, and my own mod to the intake and tb, as for internals, forged pistons, forged rods, lightened crank, underdrive pulleys, no p/s, A/C optional ( have belt but won't use for race) lightweight flywheel........ roughly, what times are you thinking it will run? (BTW, I'm having the skirts shaved down slightly on the pistons......)

[slowion2]

are you planning for nitrous?

if you're that concerned with a hardcore n/a build, look into the maxi-lite rods from crower. they're a lot lighter than the other forged ones, and are rated I want to say for lower than 550hp.

I'd look into creating a different header design also possibly close to the SPS tri-y that was available

you really want to talk to green monstah, he's got a lot of whacky ideas for n/a power

no way to estimate what times you'll run, not enough info.

[project92SC2]

What do you think about this idea, since I won't have to upgrade to go turbo if I buy these? ..... ready.....

Crower Titanium Rods, put at stock specs.....

IF I can afford them.....(doubt it....)

[Apollo96SL2]

The previous owner of my SL2 has gone thru a few engine builds. The last one was quite similar to what you're talking about - Crower rods, JE pistons, etc. Made great power, but unfortunately it didn't last more than a year or so before it died. That was several years ago, and maybe the parts have improved since then, or maybe it was a bum build.

Current config uses all OEM parts, mix 'n' match years, shaved head, has 90k miles on it and still going strong. Only uses 1qt of Mobil 1 between oil changes.

[TheMU47]

n/a best bet -

hypereutectic pistons with a flat top (high comp or not, look for flat tops) and an overbore helps keep VE up

ported/polished head with a shave to keep static compression up. (service limit is .050)

stock rods (n/a is not going to break stock rods)

stock cams with a slight retard on both In and Ex (depends on setup, I'll help steer you right later on if you wish)

a little fuel tuning goes a long way. I like the SAFC2 - very user friendly, and gets the job done.

[project92SC2]

That works.... I'm glad I don't have to spend a bundle on my first build, thanks for the tips Monstah..... for a minute there, I thought I would need forged rods and pistons..... guess not. What rings should I use?