Need some help from the sphere!

[Jeremy]

So you might know that I got my car running recently.

On the jackstands, it started and idled nicely.

Now, it starts fine and idles fine when cold.

Once the car heats up to temp, it bounces from stoich to lean, like 16:1. It runs ok though, loss of power is evident though. Once I come to a stop, the idle surges and it occasionally dies. It will go from normal idle speed down to almost stalling, when this happens, the AFR goes from stoich to lean again.

Background info:

New ECTS, good o2 sensor etc...

The gas in the car has sat since July. Do you think some fresh gas and some gas drier would help? What about the fuel filter? Its obviously fuel related, if it were spark related, the car would be super rich no?

TIA

[Jeremy]

Little more info:

I did a auto to manual swap while it was down too. Im running the auto PCM, the manual PCM made it run like crap.

The rear o2 isnt hooked up and the car is being run open downpipe.

[saturnspeed_12]

i thought you were going to drain that crap? but yeah id first put new gas in it, filter, and an octane booster with it or dry gas just something.

but it runs fine in open loop but craps out in closed, and you are using the obd2 right? i cant remember.

[Anonymous]

if your using the obd2, put the rear 02 sensor in some exhaust flow, also drain the crap gas if you can and add 93 asap, octane boost will do very little unless you add a huge about of it. Not sure if this will fix the problem as I've not dealt with gas that went bad, but it should def. help.

[Jeremy]

Im gonna hack up my old exhaust tommorow and put the cat back in with the rear o2.

I put 6 fresh gallons of 93 octane in and something to help get the water out and dry the gas, it didnt help at all. It only happens when the car gets heated up in closed loop. Startup is fine and it idles right around 14:1.

stupid obd2.

[saturnspeed_12]

OBD-obsessively bad driver

yeah hope that cat and o2 gets it lined out. just that damn obd2 needing all to run right.

[sl2wycked]

why would the rear o2 do this?

[Jeremy]

it shouldnt.

but I dont know what else to do.

[omgitselvisc]

dude either try an odb1 or it really sounds like the 1st o2 sensor because it makes sense lol once its warm it will rely on the o2 sensor cause its all warmed up.. bla bla bla you know.. i'd try another o2 to see if that makes a diff if not try simulating the first o2 with the wideband you have [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/biggrin.gif[/img]

[Jeremy]

Ive used 4 different o2's and the o2 sim from the AEM. None of them changed anything.

Im begining to suspect the ECTS connector.

[sl2wycked]

well hook up a damn scan tool(not dtc reader)

[PROTOTYPE]

[quote="ElvisC"]dude either try an odb1 or it really sounds like the 1st o2 sensor because it makes sense lol once its warm it will rely on the o2 sensor cause its all warmed up.. bla bla bla you know.. i'd try another o2 to see if that makes a diff if not try simulating the first o2 with the wideband you have

[Jeremy]

[quote="Saturntuner05"]

dude either try an odb1 or it really sounds like the 1st o2 sensor because it makes sense lol once its warm it will rely on the o2 sensor cause its all warmed up.. bla bla bla you know.. i'd try another o2 to see if that makes a diff if not try simulating the first o2 with the wideband you have

I think you need to learn how to read, tard.

[S.Bretz]

A CTS will do that. ALso make sure you have the TPS plugged in.