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Rear disc... revisted...

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  • Rear disc... revisted...

    I got a guy who has the rear calipers, but they are for a 93 I think. He said the 96 has a diff part number...

    Soooooo... no way I can get this to work? What is the diff? Or can it be done simply?

    I just want some cheap calipers DAMNIT!
    STC New England FOUNDER
    1998 JGC 5.9L V8 LIMITED - (+450HP Brick)
    [quote author="TURRRBOOO"]Igot a pop-up that won't go away...quick, some one rub it.[/quote]
    [quote author=SL2clone]<br />Straight pipes sound like wet ass in a bathtub.[/quote]

  • #2
    I don't see why they wouldn't work. I though they where all the same. the knuckle was the same threw the years, so if it fits on one year, is will fit the others too. Just get a tap and clean those rusty threads out on your knuck so you don't cross thread the caliper bolts.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.


    • #3
      I agree with Sam. As far as I know, they are the same through '98 when they stopped having rear discs as an option.

      I don't remember hearing of any rear brake discrepency through the years.
      1993 SW2 - Slow and Low


      • #4
        it will work on a 96 because it will work on my wagan .....I'm in the prosses right know of switching them out,but haveing a problem getting the hub to release so I can get the dust sheild an the back of the drumplate ...anyone have any idea's Ive tied just about everything..thanks dan


        • #5
          oh you got to pop the bearing/hub out, huh? mine was rusted so bad, i had to bash it with a sledge hammer from behind several times before it came out. but i was replacing mine so i didnt care.

          take the 4 bolts out, if you havent. thenspray loads of pb penetrating oil around it, and tap around the housing with a hammer to loosen the rust up. then you can tap on the hub flange all around, that might break it loose. if not, dont go crazy bashing it or you will ruin your bearing.

          also, when reinstalling it, put loads of like anti seize around the hub, just in case you have to take it off again.
          Ian---The Fat Ass

          1995 SL2-High compression engine FOR SALE
          2010 Chevy Cobalt SS- tuned with plenty of goodness
          2002 SC2-New daily
          2017 Kawasaki Ninja 650 KRT- got a stupid deal
          2003 Ford Taurus SES- free daily beater


          • #6
            Just did mine tonight. There are no threads in the knuck to worry about. The bolt goes threw the knuckle and threads into the caliper.

            I had not problems getting my hubs out. I replaced them about a year ago, so they slid right out. Once you have the 4 hub bolts out, you can try clamping a pair of large vice grips to the backing plate and use the backingplate as a pry bar to pull the hub out. If that doesn't work. Try PB blaster..torch the knuckle and back of he bearing (don't focus on the bearing) and then spray blaster on the bearing to cool it really quickly so it shinks in the hot knuck, and hit the bearing with a rubber mallet.
            -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
            1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
            1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.


            • #7
              i am going to be doing this soon.... is it hard to do if your a weekend mechanic....

              what tools would be required... i just bought a compressor...
              Bigger. Better. Keebler
              <br />
              <br />Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver."


              • #8
                Not many. A 10mm socket, a 14 mm wrench, 11mm wrench for banjo bolts, and a 10mm wrench for the bleeder valves...a 6 inche extension. Some pliers, A phillips head to remove the console. Possibly a drill and a large drill bit. I had to open the hole up that holds the parking brake cable in side the car. And a rear disc socket tool to reset the piston (or a set of needle nose pliers)
                -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
                1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
                1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.


                • #9
                  ok I got it done ,all but bleeding the brake's 3 hours it wasn't too bad thanks for the help turrrbooo, an saturnspeed ....I would have been out there out there all day messing with it thanks again


                  • #10
                    a good idea would be to go to a p&p and sort of mill around checkin out the cars w/ rear discs and sway bars until you find one in really good shape
                    i found one with new endlinks new calipers and rotors and pads and then put a bushing kit in it and i might put it in this wkend after i finish the 95
                    sigpic-VOLVO 745T 175K MBC ...
                    - 9 BOLT Aluminum Intake 3rd gen sedan... Beige... 160K

                    You're so crazy! enough in a way that i'll probably say you destroyed me!
                    ~The Used


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