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  • Coolant Low Light

    Ever since getting this car, I've had some problems with the coolant low light coming on and flashing saying that the level is low. It is. I check it everytime it comes on. However, the first time I came across this, I had just replaced the ECTS and some fluid leaked out. I topped it off and it was ok for about a week. Then it was low again. So my dad and I drained it out and flushed it, then did a refill. It would be slightly low everyday after driving it, but not a lot...in fact it was pretty low the first time after driving it after the flush/fill. Then slowly after topping it off every day it seemed to just stay at the proper level.

    Now...months later, the light is coming on and flashing, but only does it for a few moments and then goes away...and wont be seen again maybe for a couple days. I check the fluid and its low, but not really all too low that its a severe problem. Yet.

    Does anyone have any insight in this? It just seems weird to me. Sign of a bad radiator? Bad cooling system? Super slow leaks? I dont know. Its not a bad problem yet...the car has never overheated ever (as long as I've had it), but of course I dont want it to, so I'd like to get some feedback on this thing...cause I'm stumped right now as to what's doing this.

    [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/redface.gif[/img]
    1997 Silver SC2 Coupe

  • #2
    Check your drivers side radiator endtank. Betcha theres a crack in it [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/sad.gif[/img] Either that or you are "weeping" fluid somewhere else.
    07 Redline w/ stuff.<br /><br />89 Civic hatch w/o stuff.<br /><br />96 SL2 that dont need stuff.

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    • #3
      Jeremy - Ok...I havent noticed any leaks anywhere, but I'll check it out more closely on that side.
      1997 Silver SC2 Coupe

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      • #4
        yeah, on those autos near the top? trans line in the radiator have been known to leak. but if the light was flashing, that normally points to the ects being bad.

        but then if you havent noticed any leaks, and its losing coolant quite a bit and everything else checked out fine, then its either internal leak or the radiator core. if it was the radiator core, then it will normally leave a little coolant trail out of the moisture drain on the firewall and to the ground (like as if a/c was on), or leak into the car.
        Ian---The Fat Ass

        1995 SL2-High compression engine FOR SALE
        2010 Chevy Cobalt SS- tuned with plenty of goodness
        2002 SC2-New daily
        2017 Kawasaki Ninja 650 KRT- got a stupid deal
        2003 Ford Taurus SES- free daily beater

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        • #5
          Ian - I replaced the ECTS first thing a long time ago and the old resin tipped one was totally fried and melted when I pulled it. I put in the new metal tipped one. I'm wondering if by what you just said that maybe the connector was also screwed too and that may need to be replaced. I guess I'll have to look into that too. I cant see how a brand new sensor would go bad that fast unless the connector was fried as well. I didnt notice any damage or corrosion on the contacts or the connector when I installed the new sensor, but I suppose its entirely possible it was bad.

          Also I notice my temp guage never reads more than a hair over the 1/4 mark...when most posts I see say that it should be more toward the 1/2 mark. Is that another sign of something reading wrong? There was one time when I was idled in a parking lot for a decent time and the gauge did go up to about the 1/2 mark and then the fans came on and it went back down.

          I've been told that this idle thing is just something GMs tend to do...and that's normal. But the thing about the reading at the 1/4 mark being low is worrying me.
          1997 Silver SC2 Coupe

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          • #6
            yeah sounds like ects is bad. ive been through 3 in a week. ive only been able to get one from the dealer that actually works. ive tried the parts stores but they always go bad really quick.

            now the connector can look good, but still be bad. sometimes you dont notice the corrosion because it can go into the wire and corroded up. but it does sounds like something with the ects is bad. temp should be between 1/4 and 1/2 like pretty much all gms.
            Ian---The Fat Ass

            1995 SL2-High compression engine FOR SALE
            2010 Chevy Cobalt SS- tuned with plenty of goodness
            2002 SC2-New daily
            2017 Kawasaki Ninja 650 KRT- got a stupid deal
            2003 Ford Taurus SES- free daily beater

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            • #7
              Ian - Yep I got the ECTS from the dealership. I heard most parts store Saturn parts are crap...so I've always gotten the genuine Saturn parts...though so far it was only the PCV and the ECTS. Thankfully they're cheap as all hell.

              With my Neon, the same sensor (though I'm not sure there is one) would have probably cost me twice the price of the Saturn part. I've noticed the Saturn parts tend to be pretty cheap compared to Neon parts. O2 sensors for the Saturn are like 50 bucks I think...ones for a Neon are upwards of 100...and thats the cheap ones. :evil:
              1997 Silver SC2 Coupe

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              • #8
                :lol:
                Ian---The Fat Ass

                1995 SL2-High compression engine FOR SALE
                2010 Chevy Cobalt SS- tuned with plenty of goodness
                2002 SC2-New daily
                2017 Kawasaki Ninja 650 KRT- got a stupid deal
                2003 Ford Taurus SES- free daily beater

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                • #9
                  Haha...well I suppose not...just so far I've noticed some of the sensors are a lot cheaper. My Neon's crankshaft sensor was 100 dollars...I think the same sensor for a Saturn is much less. The EGR valve is 150 for Saturns...I think its a bit more for Neons.

                  Oh well...I guess when real things start to break down...I'll find out the hard way. :evil:
                  1997 Silver SC2 Coupe

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