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  • My questions

    As i was looking thru that thread where people posted pictures of their different set-ups, it got me thinking. Why waste money on N/A mods if I want to end up turbo'd sometime anyway? So then I was planning out my fiances for the year, and figure I can spend about $1,200 on the car. My goal is to have the car daily-driven on stock internals, with low boost. How realistic is this? I know it's not going to be any sort of a big build. I will probably do a rebuild before I put on the turbo. Here is what I have gathered that I will need/want so far:

    Turbo (internally wastegated is fine)
    Log-style manifold
    Small FMIC w/piping
    WBO2
    MegaSquirt
    BOV
    Oil Lines
    Larger injectors?
    Boost gauge
    Slim Fans
    Small misc. clamps and stuff

    Did I forget anythign? Is this realistic within that price range? Will it hold up to daily driving? Also I don't know a lot about all the different types/sizes of turbos. What should I be looking for? I want a turbo that will be big enough so that when I get forged internals I can continue to use it with higher boost levels, but one that has a pretty quick spool.
    -Mike -MN <br />&#39;96 SC2 <br />Check out my website!<br />[img width=350 height=40]http://www.sixthsphere.com/storage/976/stc_banners-oakdog8.jpg[/img]

  • #2
    a forged internaled turbo will be different than a stock low boost cheap saturn owner turbo.

    you'll want something t3 60 trim (t3 super 60 for internally wastegated) or a bit larger (small t3/t4)
    cheapo ebay fmic and piping
    good quality log manifold (it'll hold decent power AND be resellable) ($200-300)
    oil lines are important, make sure you get nice ones with the good fittings.
    since you'll be tuning yourself, you'll also want an egt gauge.
    you'll need an act clutch to hold the power

    it's possible to put it together for 1200, but it may be closer to 1500, and this will all be used.. so keep checking all the for sale sections, ebay, etc.
    - Justin [s]99 Blue SL2 - T3/T4 14psi[/s] (dead)


    FS: Pimped lower trans mount, TiAL 38mm Wastegate, Gauge Cluster, Oil Drain

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    • #3
      if its just gonna be low boost, dd wouldnt it be easier to run an 034 eic or an sds eic? rather than fuck with tuning a ms system?

      dunno something to consider i guess.

      I second the t3 super 60, thats what ill be going for.

      oh and AAA membership lol just in case (for your towing needs)
      [color=red]-Tyler[/color]<br /><br />2005 Chevy Trailblazer<br />1999 Saturn SL2<br />2002 Suzuki Bandit 1200

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      • #4
        for the record, the cheapest "kit" of sorts that I could throw together back in the day was $1800 - $1900 that was with exhaust piping and intercooler piping being given to me, worm gear clamps rather than tbolts, managed by an safcII... non-forged, low boost (t3s60)

        Basically, for $1200 you will be cutting a lot of corners that should not be cut and you're not including the surprise expenses that always come up. Start a slow biuld over the year and save what you can, piece it together over time and go that way. Otherwise if you do pull it off, it will not be reliable 9/10 times.

        Experienced advice: Do it once, do it right. $1200 is not going to cut it, sorry mang.
        CSW Tuning or Facebook!
        - Stork

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        • #5
          shit i turbo'd my 92 for maybe 5-600 it was low boost and and a dd just larger injectors :shock:

          me and saturnterminator had the same setup until he went with a header and a to4e

          you figure a low boost setup will be >8psi

          if you can come across some steals and stuff you coudl do it for 1200 and if you can do some welding and stuff yourself

          as for the clutch my stock one was holding fine at 8psi

          i'm sticking with the sds system on my new buildup until i get some type of ms rolling--it works well for what it is


          i had a spec stage 2 in my 98 and it held real nice but not its getting a 6 puck
          2000 sl2 5 speed *for sale*<br />1998 SC2 forged motor, turbo sold<br />1992 sc2 turbo sold

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          • #6
            Alright, I don't want to half-ass this. I'll just buy the parts as I get the money, and then put it together once I have all the stuff. $1200 was an estimate based on what i'll make this summer, and I'm still not totally sure what my school expenses will be next year. As for engine management, beyond the safc I am lost, so I just put the MS down as some form. Obviously I still need to read more. And do I really need a 6-puck if I'm only running 5-6psi?
            I already have a 2.5" exhaust ready to be put on the car, so that's one less thing to buy
            -Mike -MN <br />&#39;96 SC2 <br />Check out my website!<br />[img width=350 height=40]http://www.sixthsphere.com/storage/976/stc_banners-oakdog8.jpg[/img]

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by OakDog8
              And do I really need a 6-puck if I'm only running 5-6psi?
              no
              2000 sl2 5 speed *for sale*<br />1998 SC2 forged motor, turbo sold<br />1992 sc2 turbo sold

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by OakDog8
                Alright, I don't want to half-ass this. I'll just buy the parts as I get the money, and then put it together once I have all the stuff. $1200 was an estimate based on what i'll make this summer, and I'm still not totally sure what my school expenses will be next year. As for engine management, beyond the safc I am lost, so I just put the MS down as some form. Obviously I still need to read more. And do I really need a 6-puck if I'm only running 5-6psi?
                I already have a 2.5" exhaust ready to be put on the car, so that's one less thing to buy
                Very wise choice.
                CSW Tuning or Facebook!
                - Stork

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                • #9
                  what's the scoop with fuel control and delivery? That's the part I'm most unsure of. At what level will I need larger injectors, and what size? What's the cheapest route for engine management?
                  Also would I be better off with an mp2 or mp3?
                  -Mike -MN <br />&#39;96 SC2 <br />Check out my website!<br />[img width=350 height=40]http://www.sixthsphere.com/storage/976/stc_banners-oakdog8.jpg[/img]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by OakDog8
                    what's the scoop with fuel control and delivery? That's the part I'm most unsure of. At what level will I need larger injectors, and what size? What's the cheapest route for engine management?
                    Also would I be better off with an mp2 or mp3?
                    Pretty much any pressure above stock you will need larger injectors. I forgot what the equation was, but 96lbrs give to 400ishhp so go from there lol (less you are running like 3-4hp extra lol). Bottom line, you'll need a 255 walby and larger injectors to match the amount of fuel flow required to run safely, (again the equation I forgot) and up to about 10psi/220bhp a well tuned safcII will do well. As far as timing and fuel... ms will be your cheapest route, then there is the haltech and tec systems that have been used very successfully on the llo's. Much beyond that you are in darker waters, but the base of most tuning systems is the same. So if you get to say 10lbs/220bhp + start looking for something other than a piggyback, say maybe an eic and some timing control or the standalones.

                    As far as mp3 V mp2, the mp3 is more of a down the strip type of tranny if I remember correctly and the mp2 is more of a high speed / top end transmission. So depending on if you want to do 174mph and blow out a window (me/mp2), or faster times down the track (jay/mp3), yeah lol.
                    CSW Tuning or Facebook!
                    - Stork

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