is it easier to upgrade or downgrade the PSI using a boost controller. Basicly I want to know if I should buy a wastegte that is stuck with 5 PSI or one that has 20psi. I was looking at internal but all of them have a setting of (aprox) 8.3psi, and I am shooting for 6-10 low-high.
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With an EBC (or manaul controller) you can only increase the boost level....but to a point. You really don't want to go further then double the spring rate...but you can. You just risk gate flutter, slower boost build time, and possible only spikeing to your desired level before it starts to taper back off.-6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.
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If an internal is rated at 8psi and is adjustable, you can go lower than the 8.
However, I dont recomend using a CHEAP mbc on an internal gate, your will flutter and spike boost like its going out of style.
Solution: Get an external setup. Put in the spring that is rated at the LOWEST amount of boost you want to run and use an MBC to turn it up. Just heed what sam said. Cheap MBC's work fairly well with external gates.07 Redline w/ stuff.<br /><br />89 Civic hatch w/o stuff.<br /><br />96 SL2 that dont need stuff.
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I would still like to use an internal(to keep it clean), and I do plan on using the APEXi AVC-r I aquired. What I asked was answered and I thank you. Another question based off of the response is, with that BC could I use a 5psi WG on an internal examples below?
this is what I was thinking of going with to make pulling DP hella easier.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... mot_widget
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &rd=1&rd=1
obviously I would be looking for a lower PSI on this spring but the basic idea is there.sigpic
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it depends on the actuator, but if it comes around 7-8pis, then ajusting it to be looser will most likely lower your boost. too loose and it will take a whilel to built boost because you won't have a good seal to hold the pressure before the turbine.-6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.
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thought i should say somthing for the external guys if your reading this.
always try to get the highest psi spring for your target boost level. so if your going for 10 psi, don't get a 8psi spring and use a boost controller. while you may think you'll want to turn it down sometime, you most likely never will.
i was running 19 psi on a 6.5psi spring and i hard a hard time keeping peek boost levels stable as well as speeding up spool. i swapped to a 11 psi spring and the difference was unbelievable. not only did it spool way quicker, it held 19psi like nothing. this swap got me an extra 11whp.
with the bigger spring, spool up is way faster and more crisp. i run a 17psi spring in there right now and its even more noticable compaired to the 11 psi spring.
reason this is important is because your wastegate starts to crack way before you reach full boost. while electronic boost controllers can help hold it back, there is only so much they can do. that little dinky vaccume line on the bottom of the hat isn't the only thing that opens the valve. the exhaust pressure does as well. if you have a highly efficent exhaust system low back pressure, you won't have as many issues, however you do drive a saturn.
manual boost controllers hold them back too, but can't keep them closed like an electronic, hence one of the many reason electronic is better.
because wastegates crack early, you want to have the biggest spring that your target boost level will permit. keep that fucker closed as long as possible and you'll be happy.
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Originally posted by boostedsl2thought i should say somthing for the external guys if your reading this.
always try to get the highest psi spring for your target boost level. so if your going for 10 psi, don't get a 8psi spring and use a boost controller. while you may think you'll want to turn it down sometime, you most likely never will.
i was running 19 psi on a 6.5psi spring and i hard a hard time keeping peek boost levels stable as well as speeding up spool. i swapped to a 11 psi spring and the difference was unbelievable. not only did it spool way quicker, it held 19psi like nothing. this swap got me an extra 11whp.
with the bigger spring, spool up is way faster and more crisp. i run a 17psi spring in there right now and its even more noticable compaired to the 11 psi spring.
reason this is important is because your wastegate starts to crack way before you reach full boost. while electronic boost controllers can help hold it back, there is only so much they can do. that little dinky vaccume line on the bottom of the hat isn't the only thing that opens the valve. the exhaust pressure does as well. if you have a highly efficent exhaust system low back pressure, you won't have as many issues, however you do drive a saturn.
manual boost controllers hold them back too, but can't keep them closed like an electronic, hence one of the many reason electronic is better.
because wastegates crack early, you want to have the biggest spring that your target boost level will permit. keep that fucker closed as long as possible and you'll be happy.
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Originally posted by NJHKOriginally posted by boostedsl2thought i should say somthing for the external guys if your reading this.
always try to get the highest psi spring for your target boost level. so if your going for 10 psi, don't get a 8psi spring and use a boost controller. while you may think you'll want to turn it down sometime, you most likely never will.
i was running 19 psi on a 6.5psi spring and i hard a hard time keeping peek boost levels stable as well as speeding up spool. i swapped to a 11 psi spring and the difference was unbelievable. not only did it spool way quicker, it held 19psi like nothing. this swap got me an extra 11whp.
with the bigger spring, spool up is way faster and more crisp. i run a 17psi spring in there right now and its even more noticable compaired to the 11 psi spring.
reason this is important is because your wastegate starts to crack way before you reach full boost. while electronic boost controllers can help hold it back, there is only so much they can do. that little dinky vaccume line on the bottom of the hat isn't the only thing that opens the valve. the exhaust pressure does as well. if you have a highly efficent exhaust system low back pressure, you won't have as many issues, however you do drive a saturn.
manual boost controllers hold them back too, but can't keep them closed like an electronic, hence one of the many reason electronic is better.
because wastegates crack early, you want to have the biggest spring that your target boost level will permit. keep that fucker closed as long as possible and you'll be happy.sigpic
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