nitrous noob

[The Shaolin]

Okay, I need to get this shit installed.

Digging through the kit.


Seeing if I can figure this all out.


I have to find the chart with the jet sizes.

lol, used looming. I need another wingnut for this bottle bracket. MSD digital window switch. 2 step colder plugs. Bottle heater (middle left)


Miscellany. How the fuck does the purge solenoid work? Sprint said it "needed a rebuild", but said he didn't use it and provided no details. I see the hex "plug" on the n20 solenoid...what fitting do I need to install the braided purge line into it? What goes into the "out" on the purge?



I have no idea whatsoever what these are for. Is one of these the fuel line shrader valve thingy? EDIT: The thing on the right and the worm clamps are for a fuel line if you DON'T have a shrader valve. Still need to know what the other thing is for.




So, what I'm going to need:

1. Fitting from n20 solenoid to purge line.
2. Purge line?
3. Wingnut for second bottle bracket
4. Bottle paint.
5. Fuel line test port fitting?

Someone answer my questions and tell me what else I'm going to need. I'm going to try and MSPaint a wiring diagram that I need double checked, as well.

[The Shaolin]

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructi ... manefi.pdf

Someone double check the jet sizes listed here:

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructi ... 20chart%22

and how do I run a 75 shot? [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif[/img]


I've got the following jets, for what it matters:

18, 22, 24, 31, 35, 41

[sl2racer]

well the thing in the bottom picture that you don't know what it is for.

the t piece that looks oily is actually your t tap for your fuel line. you cut the line in half and then you shove the two ends with out thread into the fuel lines. then youscrew your braided fuel line onto it.

not sure what the other thing is though. kind looks like the thing you could use to unscrew the valve in your valve stem of your tire. might use it on the test port of your fuel line .

you should have two bottle brackets.

[The Shaolin]

Yep, figured out what the T fitting guy was.

I do have two brackets...sorry. One is on the bottle, the other is missing a wingnut.

[The Shaolin]

[slowion2]

combine these two drawings:




the purge goes either where that hex plug is on the nitrous solenoid, but if you cannot get it out then just get a flow-thru manifold and put it right before the nitrous solenoid.

try to ground most things separately (except solenoids themselves). wiring is going to be a bit of a bitch to do cleanly, but don't give up on it.

he probably meant the seals need to be replaced. you'd have to open it op and change out the rubber seals I believe (or whatever material it is). what make is the purge? if it's NX you can send it in to be inspected/repaired for cheap/free.

[The Shaolin]

Okay.

It will work the way I have it wired, though, correct? I shouldn't need a relay?

Oh, I see...they have it wired so you're not pulling the amperage through the microswitch. Hmmm....

Purge is made by Dynotune. What gets hooked to the "OUT" fitting on that?

That the hell is that pointy fitting thingy?

[slowion2]

exactly. you need a relay in there. the microswitch isn't going to allow enough power to pass through it without damage or failure to not have a relay. I don't have a relay on my purge but it's recommended by some to run one. also when you buy a bottle warmer it comes with a relay for that as well.

the out on the purge you can clamp a braided hose or figure out a way to get the hard line like what comes with the NX and NOS kits on there.

on this pic:

the one on the right is a shcrader valve removal tool. the one on the left looks to be for splicing into the fuel feed line if you can't do the schrader gimmick, or possibly for a dual outlet purge? hard to tell without it in my hand.

[The Shaolin]

Yes. the thingy on the left is for cutting the fuel line in half, splicing that in, and then screwing into it.

After removing the shrader valve, do I need a fitting, or will the fuel line screw directly onto whatever is left?

Where should I get the relays? Ripoffshack?

I'm going to update my MSpaint thingy with relays.

[slowion2]

should be able to get one from radio shack. there's a thread somewhere in here if you search about relays I think from Jeff (lowsl2).

yeah the line should thread right onto it, mine did and I believe the s cars do as well. test it before you relieve the pressure and take the valve out.

EDIT: actually I don't remember if we ever brough the thread from Jeff over or not [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/sad.gif[/img]

[slowion2]

combine these two drawings:

look at this again, you're close but not quite right

don't look at it being so complex, you'll get it

[Plastic Fury]

don't look at it being so complex, you'll get it

Exactly, when I got my first kit I found I was "over-reading" the directions if that makes sense. Once I laid it all out I realized how simple it was and then everything came together.

Nathan, your 4an braided fuel line will screw directly on to the fuel test port with no trouble. The schrader tool makes it very easy.

[The Shaolin]

The only thing I can see different between my drawing and your drawing is that

I am grounding the solenoids through the window switch

and they are grounding the relays through the window switch.


The window switch is built to be able to pull solenoids, so it shouldn't really matter. All I know is that I am drunk and this is making more sense.

[dream36realms]

Are you using a lighted switch I keep seeing a ground to it? As far as relays just any run of the mill relay will do or is there a specific model? And would I need a seperate one for the Purge? I really don't want to break anything next time I hook up the bottle. Sorry about the hijack.

[slowion2]

The only thing I can see different between my drawing and your drawing is that

I am grounding the solenoids through the window switch

and they are grounding the relays through the window switch.


The window switch is built to be able to pull solenoids, so it shouldn't really matter. All I know is that I am drunk and this is making more sense.

for some reason I don't think it is. I forget the rating that it said when I installed mine, but still, it's smarter to use it to control the relay than the solenoids themselves.