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Go aluminized and spray the weldds with hijgh temp paint. Much cheaper, and same results.
agreed your in the south. rust it something us northern ppl have to worry about every 5 years lol
Originally posted by ECOtec Gods
Consider this: 800 hp is a lot on a 2.0L motor. With 750hp, three-quarters of a thousand you're basically dealing with 6.14 hp per cubic inch. Pressures and stresses of all kinds thermal and mechanical loading across the board escalate to extreme levels. A Chevrolet 5.7-liter LS1 V8 with this much specific power (horsepower per cubic inch) would be making 2,137 hp
Like what...you don't have to back purge the inside of the aluminized pipe like with stainless. The most you should do it wire wheel bruch the aluminized coating off, which you do that anyway to clean dingle berries off from cutting the pipe.
If you justmig it, you can get full pentration, and don't have to even clean the coating off, it burns/melts off before you steel melts.
-6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.
not to mention you can even use a stick welder on the aluminized. It's more difficult to weld stainless with stick. I get stuff from http://store.racing-solutions.org/index.html Pretty cheap kits.
[quote author="S.Bretz"]Racing a SOHC saturn is like have a child with down syndrom. It technically shouldn't happen, but ever once in awhile some shit just gets fucked up and you have a 21st pair with 3 chromosomes.[/quote]
'94 SL2: The Detail Junky (Will it ever run? Does it even exist?)
'95 SW2: The Daily Junky 3 (388k Champion)
'95 SL2: The Daily Junky 5 (aka Snow Junky 2)
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