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  • short throw shit!

    ok, so i ordered a B&M shifter a while ago, and started installing the thing today, and ran into some problems.
    1- i don't have a deep 12mm socket (fixable)
    2- i can't get the shift knob off (please help)
    3- i'm now pretty sure that the previous owner already installed one. (unless the factory pivot is bright blue as well)

    so my big problem right now is I've got a factory shift knob that won't come off of the possibly aftermarket shifter, and now the rubber shift knob is all torn up from me trying to remove it. Need some ideas here guys... (and i'd like to hire someone to cap the sumbitch that owned this car before me) [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif[/img]
    -Kevin<br /><br />&quot;Ha ha HA! Mine is an evil laugh...now die!&quot;<br /><br />

  • #2
    to remove my aftermarket knob....i used that drawer lining stuff that u use in kitchens....its got a good grip to it,then u should be able to turn the bottom part....and why do u need a socket....maybe RL's are diffrentfrom ION's but i just threw mine in there and it worked fine....i do recommend gettin an extra set of hands those always help....
    AC 66Bronco: holly shit a bmw 850 is in a porno<br /><br /><br />Erik: there is a train going by<br />me:im on a train<br />Erik: OH MY GOD! IM TALKING TO SOME1 WHO IS ON A TRAIN....<br /><br />&quot;The fun was ended when a dour-faced man smashed the penis out of the air.&quot;<br /><br />If I had a dollar for every time I read that phrase...

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    • #3
      he has a redline right? might be a bit different
      Originally posted by ECOtec Gods
      Consider this: 800 hp is a lot on a 2.0L motor. With 750hp, three-quarters of a thousand you're basically dealing with 6.14 hp per cubic inch. Pressures and stresses of all kinds thermal and mechanical loading across the board escalate to extreme levels. A Chevrolet 5.7-liter LS1 V8 with this much specific power (horsepower per cubic inch) would be making 2,137 hp

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      • #4
        If yo have a RL, then the shift nob might be screwed into the shifter assemby's shaft. The RL's had a problem with the knob coming off, so saturn said to drill a hole and put a screw down threw the top. Pop the little part on the top of the shifter off to access the screw. The little part is the cover that has the 1/2/3/4/5/4 tree on it.
        -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
        1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
        1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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        • #5
          1/2/3/4/5/4?? lol NO REVERSE!!! lol

          and yeah, it's a redline

          well, i took the little top plate off, and i got some big metal disc with three little arms coming out of it, and that rubber grip is molded all around it. and in my frustration, i ripped a bunch of the rubber off trying to find a way to get it off, so now my shift knob is all funky shapes of metal sticking out of rubber molding...
          what was that about drilling it? how so? down thru the top?
          -Kevin<br /><br />&quot;Ha ha HA! Mine is an evil laugh...now die!&quot;<br /><br />

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          • #6
            Re: short throw shit!

            Originally posted by SonicION
            ok, so i ordered a B&M shifter a while ago, and started installing the thing today, and ran into some problems.
            1- i don't have a deep 12mm socket (fixable)
            2- i can't get the shift knob off (please help)
            3- i'm now pretty sure that the previous owner already installed one. (unless the factory pivot is bright blue as well)

            so my big problem right now is I've got a factory shift knob that won't come off of the possibly aftermarket shifter, and now the rubber shift knob is all torn up from me trying to remove it. Need some ideas here guys... (and i'd like to hire someone to cap the sumbitch that owned this car before me) [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_twisted.gif[/img]
            I just did this so I should know. My knob...actually was already loose (never got it fixed). The easy way to get it off is to find the screw they used, if there is no screw then it's probably not screwed on. Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and blow dry that mother until it comes loose. Shake it and pull it up. If you can't do it...then use rubber mallet ala the instructions.

            Um...I'm thinking based on what you're saying is that the short shifter is already installed...I'm going to have to concur. Because the blue pivot ball is from the B&m kit. If this is the case then you moronically destroyed the b&m knob which is incredibly hard to replace because it's reverse lockout...it just screws off! The easiest way to find out if the B&m is already installed is to check the cable linkages. The one on the right should be in a different orientation (on it's side)...or maybe I just did it wrong...

            I'm just thinking that...there is only one short shifter for the redline now (the b&m) and it's very much different than the factory shifter (the lockout is plastic and the pivot ball is plastic, on the b&m it's all aluminum)

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